Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 1,994 total · 14/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the route on the arete to the right (15' and east) of the start of Mexican Crack. Start the route with large holds on the arete next to the trail, that eventually become balancy. Clip a fixed pin, and commit to a balance move. Clip a brand new 1/2" bolt then finish the route. This route joins the 3 Amigos Crack to its anchors.

Location

Directly across from the start to Mexican Crack.

Protection

A small RP will supplement the fixed pin. One quickdraw for the bolt. Some small-to-medium cams are needed to finish 3 Amigos Crack.

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tenesmus  
 
Old-school slab sandbagger. Book says it's .11a but who can tell. Is it harder than Mind Blow or easier than Prepositional Phrase? Apr 7, 2007
Matty Coles
Salt Lake City
  5.11a PG13
Matty Coles   Salt Lake City
  5.11a PG13
Hard to say... Fear factor on lead was pretty high for me. Surprised to see no rating for it. The climbing feels a bit like Knobs to Gumbyland, but a little thinner, less straight forward and more committing. The last knob mantle/high-step, with slopey hands, 10 or more feet above your bolt feels extremely consequential. A bolt here would make the route much funner and something I might recommend. No bolt really doesn't add much to the route. Instead I would just recommend doing "Knobs to Gumbyland." This is Old-School, Thin, Mantley, Knobby LCC route with a good option to finish on 3 amigos. Oct 19, 2018
johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
Pretty good route, with hard moves. Tie off the pin and cast off. Nov 28, 2018