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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kirsten Davis & Bill Robins 1985
Page Views: 1,455 total · 9/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 12, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Approach this via first climbing Mexican Crack (or after rapping Hand Jive). This is two cracks right of Hand Jive (in between is a rightward diagonaling hand crack). Climb the ricey finger crack passing two bushes en route. At the second bush, traverse left to the anchors for Hand Jive to rap. One 60m barely gets you to the ground - watch the ends of your rope.

Protection

Small aliens/tcus up to #2 camalot.

Photos

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Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
Peter,I tried to find this climb 2 years ago. I climbed Kutkorner, and scrambled right of the chains for the rap, but couldn't find the start. How far from the base of Paraplegic Ward is the start of this climb. Is it an obvious crack? Thanks in advance. Apr 15, 2005
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
This route is easy to find. It is a continuous (although weird) crack system. It is the first protectable chunk of rock right of Parapalegic Ward. I just hit it by climbing Mexican and then scrambling up the low angle stuff above. Apr 21, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
OK, I found it this time. Gritty and rotten rock galore, but somehow it all felt good on this route. A very easy to protect crack: I used a standard rack, with cams high and low, but nuts worked well in the middle. I used the smallest wired hex (BD), in a horizontal crack with a split chickenhead, and 2 more nuts in constrictions begging to be plugged with nuts. May 3, 2005

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