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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,710 total · 32/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 23, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The direct variation to Crescent Crack is a good way to finish the topout of Crescent Crack, or as an approach to the bolted slab, the Final Link (5.9). Instead of traversing down and right at the sloping shelf on top of pitch two, continue up the dihedral (thin, 5.9). Pass a piton on the left, then work up through an awkward section to a ledge. From here, Final Link works left with a hard mantle and a bolt, or finish by heading right and up.


Standard Rack


Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Very awkward climbing on this finish. Definitely a better finish than the Crescent Crack sloping ramp exit. Jul 17, 2005
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
The exit on this pitch can be tricky, and rope drag a real problem if the belay is not done correctly. Better to pull the move up onto the slab and belay from the bolt anchor at the base of Final Link, then either finish with that pitch (a great way to do the whole C.C. experience) or rappell back down to the base of the ramp exit. Oct 12, 2005
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
Excellent variation! Nice 5.9 angling crack with some delicate footwork, to a flaring, exposed feeling chimney. The finish around the corner to the right makes it somewhat less enjoyable. But adding the Final Link 5.9 slab finish, and a trip up the Coffin, makes this one of my favorite outings in the canyon! We need a name for the "Crescent-Direct/Final Link/Coffin" link up. Unbroken Chain? C.C.D.F.L.C? Sep 21, 2006
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
So much better than the normal finish!!
The direct variation completely redeems the grunt through the offwidth. Fun moves in the dihedral with well spaced bomber holds and slick feet. The pro is there but do you want to hang there placing a cam? Going up the horn looks harder than it really is but still feels very airy.
If you want to make the mantel on the slab more enjoyable (ie not involving heinous rope drag pulling your ass down) clip your last pieces below the horn and the bolts with long runners and get to the anchors of the Final Link, it's worth it. Jun 24, 2008
This climb humbled me.... a few tricky moves that made me swear. The offwidth was fun.
Edit: Ditto what Stan said! Jun 20, 2009
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Definitely do the slab finish and make sure you have enough time for a lap on the Coffin since you rap right to it! 3 classic pitches offering just about everything. A 1 camalot might come in handy for the final chimney. Jun 23, 2009
+1 stan Jun 13, 2012
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Bring lots of finger-sized pieces. But a #3 is handy for the flare as well. Oct 16, 2012
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Gary Jones   Cottonwood Heights, UT
C.C.D.F.L.C!! May 4, 2014
Awkward climbing through the corner - worth it to get to the giant flake and Final Link (5.9). Nov 15, 2015
Greyson   SLC, UT
Wondering if it would be possible to link this pitch with the second pitch (off width pitch) of crescent crack. I have a 70m rope and it seemed like it might be a little short. Mar 15, 2017
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Base of the OW to base of the Final Link works fine with a 70. You'll be out of sight of the belay the whole time with lots of rope out in the crux traverse, make sure you're solid or you could log more air time than you care for. Mar 15, 2017
Alex Temus
Alex Temus   Utah
What a cool route! A little bit of everything here if you do the full climb to the bottom of Final Link (Which seems like the only logical way to do the route).
Really though, funky off-width, something resembling the top, traversing section of Mexican crack, a short chimney, a couple bolts on the face. Great route!

Also - can we agree to change the route length to something in the ballpark of 130ft? That's my best guess. Aug 25, 2017
You can link this and the second (OW) pitch of crescent no problem. I did it with a 70m rope, but I'm sure a 60 would get you there. Just watch the rope drag. Jun 8, 2018

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