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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jack Roberts, Don McCarthy 1976
Page Views: 12,576 total, 75/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Hand Jive is generally approached by climbing Crack in the Woods first, or you can climb the chimney leading up to the crack. It is the appealing-looking thin hands crack above and right of Crack in the Woods.

From Crack in the Woods, downclimb into the chimney and undercling out right into the crack system. Liebacking and jamming leads to a bolted rap anchor, which will just barely get you to the ground with one 60m rope.

This pitch felt harder and more insecure to me than Crack in the Woods. I'd give this 8+ or 9-.

Protection

Stoppers, small cams to 3"
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
I'm only 5' 11" crag turkey. The stem works every time for me! Oct 2, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Not as bad as everyone makes it seem. If you stem low and end up below the flake I think this feels a bit more like a V2 boulder problem with a shitty fall, but really only for the hand foot match. Seems like one could*** make the step across the void above the flake at 8+, this would be pretty airy and you'd be super rad like Greg to just commit to it, long reach, but not necessarily height dependent. Every time I try this I opt for the lower variation, but maybe that's because I did it this way the first time and cannot break the habit. Location and rock quality make this a classic moderate in little that shouldn't be missed! Sep 28, 2017
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
I definitely agree about the bottom crux out of the undercling being terrifying with the potential for a nasty top rope swing into the chimney behind you. I first tried a cam in the bottom pocket of the flake, but I'm pretty sure that thing would have broken off the flake if I fell. I didn't want to ruin the route, so instead I opted for traversing far right and clipping a bolt from No Jive Arete. It still would have been an ugly fall but not nearly as bad as swinging backwards. I think the best way is just to do the move on top rope and not fall though. Maybe next time I'll have the guts to try it. Nov 21, 2016
Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9
The crux at the beginning felt far harder than anything on Crack in the Woods, which felt soft for 5.8. This is much harder than any 8 I've done in LCC, and harder than a couple 9's as well. Also, the thin flake for the hand/foot match crux move is terrifying, has anyone whipped on that thing? Nov 21, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Just stem across the gully into the crack at the bottom. What's the big deal? Sep 14, 2016
justa beater
sandy utah
justa beater   sandy utah
if you lead this climb from the chains on crack in the woods you're robbing yourself of what is a very exciting move to establish yourself on the under cling flake and then the Crux move in my opinion there's no other way to lead this then from the chimney at the bottom all the way up and not having the security of being anchored the bomber chains it would detract a lot from the face value of the climb and would not be nearly as adventurous, it's a gear climb not a mixed climb leave the chains and do it ground up there is gear in and above the crux. Mar 27, 2016
benb  
Mike called it. I found this placement for the first time the other day, not sure how I missed it last time. Maybe Ryan's cleaning brought it out? Just past the step across, perfect micronut placement above the broken hold in the small crack, and then you are on toprope for that balance-y step up to get into the finger cracks. Oct 29, 2015
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
 
If you are feeling sketched out on the move to get to the double cracks, you can get an excellent #5 (gray) peenut in the small crack on the right. Apr 12, 2015
davids86
Sandy, UT
davids86   Sandy, UT
Hand to foot match is the key! Love this one! Oct 29, 2012
Ryan Goslin
Salt Lake City, UT
Ryan Goslin   Salt Lake City, UT
I was a bit sketched about the downclimb from crack in the woods, but cleaned some dirt out of a crack 10 feet to the right of the anchors. There is a bomber red c3 placement that puts you on top rope for the initial moves to the crack. Plus eliminates the risk of a serious swing, just be sure to put a runner on it. Great route Jun 17, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.8+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.8+
8+ is a decent grade for the route. The first few moves on Crack in the Woods felt just as funky (awkward ringlocks) so i'd give them the same grade. If you down climb the chimney a few feet but not to the base of the flake, but rather right into the jug at the top of the flake, the moves out of it feel really mellow. Just mantle up with a left hand foot match and work into the double crack, think slab climbing and use good footwork. After that it's a combination of liebacking, handjamming pods, and yummy footwork. .75 BD seems to be the key, so bring at least 2. Don't fear the first few moves, or the hearsay about them, they are really cruiser. Apr 10, 2012
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
This is a pretty sick crack, definitely worth a shot. The beginning is not too hard, and the only reason I gave it a 8+ is because I was a little sketched out climbing above a very under-camed .5, still new to trad climbing... Still sick, can't wait to go climb it again! Apr 9, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Definitely harder than Crack in the woods - although that one can be real hard if you don't climb it right! :) There are at least three ways to do the start. After getting to the crack, I back clean up to the crux roof to reduce rope drag and to make it easier for the second. Great evening light on it this time of the year! Oct 24, 2011
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.8
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.8
Fun route! Really not that bad. Keep walking down the gully until you find the undercling. All the moves are there. Oct 15, 2011
Brian G
  5.9-
Brian G  
  5.9-
Kingspeakwarrior - No mention of your fall from that starting move being belayed from the top of Crack in the Woods. You're the only one I've known or heard of to take the feared whip (I should mention this was onsight). It didn't seem too bad but the rope took a good beating with a core shot. A fun route and way more heady than actually hard for this move. I still give it a 5.9 rating for sure. Be sure to remember your .5 to .75 size for the bulge! Fun route! Jun 6, 2011
Kingspeakwarrior
West Jordan UT.
  5.9
Kingspeakwarrior   West Jordan UT.
  5.9
Definitely 5.9 The first move took me 4 trys. Jun 4, 2011
MarkJ Johnston
Salt Lake City, UT
MarkJ Johnston   Salt Lake City, UT
Tricky, committing and 5.9 anywhere, but in LCC. Aug 7, 2010
W.S.
Montana
  5.8+
W.S.   Montana
  5.8+
I led this last weekend after leading Crack In The Woods. I ended up downclimbing the chimney quite a bit before moving over to Hand Jive, and I felt that committing to the other wall was the mental crux for me. I thought this was about as hard as Crack In The Woods, and both were great pitches that protect very well. Jun 16, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Climbed it today...and...yeah, its spicy but I don't think its gotten a bunch harder over the years. One thing I noticed was I usually protect the chimney up high prior to the committing step over with a hand-ish sized cam on the left side, but, that crack seems have have disappeared.

Anywhoo...maybe 5.8+. Easier to clip the upper (old) anchor on Crack in the Wood, long, and have your partner belay from up there too. Then, step across, almost on a TR, dial the feet in on lower angle friction bits, and, have that right foot hit that flat horizontal to the right. Helps to be tall, as, from that right foot hold I can pro up that short little vertical crack from there, and, off to the races. Then, when you have a solid piece or three, have the partner unclip the extended sling off the old Crack in the Woods anchor and the rope drag will be minimal. Up ya go.

Much of the crack is good hand sized even where the pro is .75 or so camalots. Milk the pods. Cheers! Nov 11, 2009
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
  5.9
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
  5.9
I had an amazing time with this route. I did it as one long pitch up the chimney because the start from the top of Crack in the woods looks sketch balls. Ive done green A, Sasquatch, bushwack and cranial profilactic and this felt harder than all of them, so sustained. bring extra green and red camalot sizes if you dont like to run it out. Nov 6, 2009
Marq Diamond
  5.9+
Marq Diamond  
  5.9+
If crack in the woods is 5.9, this route is 10b. There is no way to downplay the fact this route is much, much harder than crack in the woods.

If you want to argue that crack in the woods is harder, you're either a liar, or full of shit.

The bottom crimper moves felt like 5.10 to me, not to mention they are poorly protected. Call me a wuss if you want; this route is probably as hard as coffin or sasquatch in my opinion.

There is just a general lack of consistency here. If you're going to rate crack of the woods 5.9, how can you honestly justify rating the route RIGHT next to it 5.8? Oct 23, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
I think it's probably the same flake as it always has been, as it was my first attempt at the route, I just need to bring my A game and figure out the magic for that move. But a spicy one it is..... Jul 7, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Agreed, that move is spooky no matter how you look at it.
And this is not the BD catalogue, hands = anything from rattly #3 down to .75 barely-get-the-knuckles-in. Jul 7, 2009
tytonic
Salt Lake City, UT
tytonic   Salt Lake City, UT
Never climbed before the flake fell off, but I did it last week. The move into the double crack from the broken flake is very committing. I ended up doing a left hand-foot match while holding myself on a single finger crystal with my right hand. My biggest surprise was the bulge crux above the double cracks. I was placing .75 camalots in the area described in the guide as "hands." Do you know anyone with hands the size of a .75 camalot? Jul 7, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
10 4 Ben. It's just me-I'll give it another go at some point...committing and very tricky. Jul 4, 2009
Ben Folsom
  5.8+
Ben Folsom  
  5.8+
That is always a committing and tricky move right there. Jul 4, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
I would agree with Michael..I started this on the flake and got stumped-it ran out and the move to get to the small double cracks was way too sketchy for me. After rapping off Crack In The Woods I ran into another climber and he said he tried it recently and backed off as well. Maybe i'm a wuss, I dunno. Anyone else climb this recently? Jul 4, 2009
notmyname
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
I'm not sure but I think the undercling fell off. May be a lot harder/sketchier now Apr 15, 2009
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
I met Frank from Connecticut(he was out here skiing for a couple months) up under the Bong Eater on Jan 18th 08. The rock was perfect and the winds calm. We came up and got him on Hand Jive the next day and TRed the crack on the face. We had the same horrible ski conditions but perfect LCC winter climbing weather. Both were very cool climbs. Jan 20, 2009
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Beautiful pitch. very sustained. The earily moves are sweet, you are basicaly on Top rope when starting this pitch if belaying off crack in the woods. I agree with the previous comments. Of course the higher you get before placeing your 1st piece the better. Jul 1, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Nah, not bad for the second if you wait just a bit before placing pro after the step across. Also, if you use a rabbit runner on the first piece, then sling the second piece long, if your partner does come off at the step off from the top of Crack in the Woods, then the TR will be fully deployed and there won't be much if any swing. This route is 5.8, C in the W is 5.9, IMHO. May 21, 2007
Polly  
Crack in the woods and Hand Jive are both still in the shade until around 1:00pm- makes a great late morning two pitches. Any later than 12:30-1-ish though Hand Jive gets hot like the rest of them. Hand Jive is a great crack- it's got a little of everything. The couple moves past the undercling start are definitely the crux (for an average height girl). Jul 13, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.8
d-know   electric lady land
  5.8
love the start, kind of unique in the canyon. any body else contemplate jumping into the crack from the top of crack in the woods. Jan 25, 2006
vincent pierce  
  5.9
This is definately the 5.9 and Crack in Woods is the 5.8. Pretty fun route using lots of medium gear. I would recommend starting this route from its base at the bottom of the chimney. I downclimbed the chimney from the top of Crack in the Woods and leading it this way means you have to climb about ten to fifteen feet before placing. This could set you up for a nasty weird toprope slam into the chimney wall at what may be the crux of the route (undercling flake to the crack). Sep 13, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.8+
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8+
Again, Andrew hits the nail on the head. A little insecure, right around the bulge, and also the step over to start it was exhillarating. It was a little bit wet still near the top. If you climb Crack in the Woods, climb this also. Apr 6, 2005