Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: John Maddux, John Hansen, Tony Calderone, 1995
Page Views: 2,349 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Just to the right of The Great Chockstone, is a steep bolted face with some grooves. Climb the bolted line on the left up some nice smears. When you achieve the ledge, prep yourself for some thin liebacking to the top. I believe there is an optional extension of the climb that clips 1 more bolt on the way to the base of the offwidth on Crescent Crack.

Protection

2 bolts at the top of climb for anchors, and 4 draws for the face.

Photos

Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
  5.10d
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
  5.10d
Can be easily toproped: climb the first pitch of Crescent Crack, and step left to the anchor when you reach the treed ledge, right below the layback at the end of the first pitch.BEEFY bolts, kudos to the FA's! Jan 20, 2005
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Might be better top-roped? The crux is off a ledge! Mar 17, 2005
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10d
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10d
fun climbing. good way to jib a slow party starting up crescent crack Jan 25, 2006
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
The optional finish brings a change of pace with another 60 or so feet of serious climbing protected by 2 more bolts (only 1 drawn on topo) and gear on flaky rock. 1 star vs. 3 stars for the bottom half.

Instead of traversing to the belay after bolt 4 step left on top of a detached block and clip a bolt. This deposits you on a gritty steep slab and marks decision making time: clip the 6th bolt and shoot straight up toward a couple of chicken heads heading for a grassy horizontal seam (super burly looking) or traverse right using tenuous friction to reach a blunt arete that can be liebacked for several insecure scary move.
Whichever way you pick, expect hard runout climbing until you run into a freshly excavated #2 placement a good 20' above the bolt. From there it's smooth sailing up wide cracks to the anchor at the base of the OW pitch of Crescent Crack.

2 bolts, cams from BD .75 to 2 and maybe large nuts. Micros could be placed in the lieback section. Let me know how that goes.
A 70m barely barely gets you back to the ground. Nov 26, 2009
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Also, this is the left bolt line, closest to the Great Chokestone. There's a nice squeeze job to the right of it that might confuse you since you can touch 2 of its bolts from the crux of Who's On First. Nov 26, 2009