Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kent Jameson, Ken Gygi 1980
Page Views: 2,554 total · 14/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


On the east end of the Crescent Crack Buttress, is a 1-bolt route. This is a short delicate face climb that uses the ripples well. The crux to me seemed to be getting to the 1st bolt.


A tree anchor with slings already on it. Bring back-ups, and 1 draw, for the climb. One can probably bring some small pieces for the upper face, but... you're so close to done.


Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Hard for the grade - this felt much more insecure than Kermit's Wad. Leading it would be extremely frightening and dangerous. There appear to be two chopped bolts above the high first bolt.

The anchor slings currently only have one rap ring - bring another to back it up. Mar 12, 2005
Joseph Lascurain
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
Props if this was bolted on lead. If not, it was lame to place the first bolt that high. I cant imagine swinging a hammer from those flaky friction feet when there is a solid stance a few feet lower. I felt the moves below the bolt were a bit harder (and insecure) than 5.8 slab and the moves after didn't quite feel like 5.9 to me at all. Maybe i did it wrong, it does look like it could go a couple different ways. Much harder than some other 5.9 sport routes in the canyon.

This can be top-roped from the rap anchors 40 feet above quite easily,as there were no anchor slings as of today. Oct 14, 2012
Skat B
Down Rodeo
Skat B   Down Rodeo
There's probably one or two 5.9 moves around the bolt. The rest is probably 5.6ish. The ripples along the face make good slopers. If you fall, then most likely it was because you hit a mental crux. This route really isn't very physically demanding. Be confident cuz you got this!! If you enjoy that route, then you'll probably like Get the Hearse which is between Rainy Day Blues and The Great Chockstone.
Mar 26, 2013
  5.9+ PG13
  5.9+ PG13
Without gear for above the bolt you could take a nasty fall. Definitely easier climbing once you're to gear placements but there was a fair bit of exfoliation getting there. Good T.R. after climbing Short Corner, otherwise need a really strong head to lead it. Apr 5, 2014
Mike McMahon
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Mike McMahon   Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
I've led this route a couple of times; it's unnecessarily dangerous. The crux seems to be clipping the lone bolt. Blow that move and you'll have a pair of broken legs. The bolt is in a very odd spot to have been placed on lead. If this was rap-bolted, it was done very poorly. Sep 21, 2017
Completely agree but isn't it nice that the FA added a whole other element of challenge to an otherwise short relatively insignificant route. Sep 26, 2017