Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: B. Simmons, M. Bennett & B. Robins, 1985
Page Views: 260 total · 2/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Apr 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

It's really a wonder that this line gets a star in the Ruckman guide--what a flog! Begin in a brushy corner just uphill and to the right of Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am. Climb the slabby corner up and into a squeeze, then wriggle your way out and along a flake until it's possible to pull back into the slot above, which is gritty and features loose rock. Oh, and I almost forgot--the moves getting into the initial squeeze can be wet--and loose. But, perhaps, I'm just a bit biased--I did get throttled by the thing, so you may just want to go find out for yourself... Giv'r!

Protection

Bring at least a single set of cams, ranging in size from hands to fists. A helmet, in this case, would almost certainly hose you as your head would become irretrievably keyed-in at the top of the first squeeze. Wear pants and long sleeves for good measure.
Once through the offending upper slot, devise a gear anchor, or figure out someway over and to the climber's left--there's a chain anchor in good repair atop Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am. The rappel is maybe 65 feet.

Photos

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mountainsense
  5.11
mountainsense  
  5.11
Kudos to Peter for the on-sight, and to Ben for cleaning the lower half of the rig. Apr 24, 2009
its worth a star now that you suckers have cleaned it Apr 27, 2009