Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,868 total · 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

On the East end of the Crescent Crack Buttress is a 1 bolt route. This climb is the corner to its left. It is short which detracts from it, but otherwise it isn't too bad. It starts as a hand crack and then a weird traverse under the roof, using chickenheads, then it works up a finger crack, until you can traverse right over the "groove"y face and up to a chain anchor, which is set far back on a ledge. Watch the rope drag.

Protection

Medium to large gear, with a long sling for the roof walkaround move. A #2 Camalot protects the traverse to the tree anchor well. The anchor is a good tree, so bring backup slings in case of age on the originals.

Photos

i did this rout two days ago and i didnt see any webbing on the tree above it, but if you run the last piece out and climb that slab at the end of the roof part or if you climb up the trees there are to bolts on the wall to rap off of May 13, 2009
Mike Stearns  
 
I like to continue up the dihedral and then head straight up the slab to the two bolt anchor. It makes the climb slightly more difficult and longer. I think this is a high quality climb for new trad leaders and taking newbies up. Apr 10, 2010
Max Dillman
  5.6
Max Dillman  
  5.6
the webbing is there but as stated, climb 20ft higher and your at a huge ledge with a two bolt belay. I climbed this thinking it was crescent crack until another party corrected my complaints Aug 20, 2011
E
  5.6
E  
  5.6
Really not a bad 5.6. Thought it was a good lead for the novice trad leader. Also kind of liked the "weird" traverse under the roof and wished the first 25 ft of climbing continued for the entire route, but the dihedral was interesting enough. Didn't see any webbing, just run it up to the anchor on the upper head wall after traversing right. Apr 5, 2014
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Can pack a little more into this package by traversing as high as possible before the final dihedral . This will give you a tad more exposure, jammin, and slabbing. Great for learning to place gear. Oct 4, 2017