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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,624 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

On the East end of the Crescent Crack Buttress is a 1 bolt route. This climb is the corner to its left. It is short which detracts from it, but otherwise it isn't too bad. It starts as a hand crack and then a weird traverse under the roof, using chickenheads, then it works up a finger crack, until you can traverse right over the "groove"y face and up to a chain anchor, which is set far back on a ledge. Watch the rope drag.

Protection

Medium to large gear, with a long sling for the roof walkaround move. A #2 Camalot protects the traverse to the tree anchor well. The anchor is a good tree, so bring backup slings in case of age on the originals.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Can pack a little more into this package by traversing as high as possible before the final dihedral . This will give you a tad more exposure, jammin, and slabbing. Great for learning to place gear. Oct 4, 2017
Eric
  5.6
Eric  
  5.6
Really not a bad 5.6. Thought it was a good lead for the novice trad leader. Also kind of liked the "weird" traverse under the roof and wished the first 25 ft of climbing continued for the entire route, but the dihedral was interesting enough. Didn't see any webbing, just run it up to the anchor on the upper head wall after traversing right. Apr 5, 2014
Max Dillman
  5.6
Max Dillman  
  5.6
the webbing is there but as stated, climb 20ft higher and your at a huge ledge with a two bolt belay. I climbed this thinking it was crescent crack until another party corrected my complaints Aug 20, 2011
Mike Stearns  
 
I like to continue up the dihedral and then head straight up the slab to the two bolt anchor. It makes the climb slightly more difficult and longer. I think this is a high quality climb for new trad leaders and taking newbies up. Apr 10, 2010
i did this rout two days ago and i didnt see any webbing on the tree above it, but if you run the last piece out and climb that slab at the end of the roof part or if you climb up the trees there are to bolts on the wall to rap off of May 13, 2009