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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dan Lepeska
Page Views: 473 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jplotz on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

No Such Thing as a Free Lunge is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is sustained and the gear finicky.

Location

North facing wall of Jello Tower is where this pitch is located, just to the right of Damnation Crack.

Protection

Gear from .4 to 2.5". Offsets useful.

Photos

TheGiles
  5.11d PG13
TheGiles  
  5.11d PG13
I'll echo Plotz and Kerwin regarding the gear - an onsight would be bold, but for those who inspect placements and/or moves on a TR the gear is actually quite reasonable. Only run-out on the (relatively) easier sections. The crux sequence itself is very well protected. Brass offsets were nice to have. Very cool route! Jun 16, 2016
kerwinl
  5.11d R
kerwinl  
  5.11d R
For those who dream to dabble with the Lunge, fear not as after initially run out face, the gear becomes plentiful and solid. Having some small offset cams will help early on as the author noted. I found lots of thin, but good gear from the crux on up to where the route rejoins MF Direct. Probably worth a TR lap or two to figure out the powerful crux and where the good gear is. Jun 16, 2014