Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dan Lepeska
Page Views: 685 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jplotz on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is sustained and the gear finicky.


North facing wall of Jello Tower is where this pitch is located, just to the right of Damnation Crack.


Gear from .4 to 2.5". Offsets useful.


  5.11d R
  5.11d R
For those who dream to dabble with the Lunge, fear not as after initially run out face, the gear becomes plentiful and solid. Having some small offset cams will help early on as the author noted. I found lots of thin, but good gear from the crux on up to where the route rejoins MF Direct. Probably worth a TR lap or two to figure out the powerful crux and where the good gear is. Jun 16, 2014
  5.11d PG13
  5.11d PG13
I'll echo Plotz and Kerwin regarding the gear - an onsight would be bold, but for those who inspect placements and/or moves on a TR the gear is actually quite reasonable. Only run-out on the (relatively) easier sections. The crux sequence itself is very well protected. Brass offsets were nice to have. Very cool route! Jun 16, 2016