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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA John Rupley 1957 FFA TM Herbert, Ed Cooper 1960
Page Views: 5,668 total, 40/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

A great climb up a widening crack. Begin with a hand size crack that widens to offwidth and then to chimney. The crux comes in the first 30ft but runnouts in the chimney keep things interesting. Top out on Jello tower.

Location

Climb up a trail on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to upper castle rock and logger's ledge. The route goes up the wide crack/chimney that separates the main wall from Jello Tower on its west side.

Protection

Cams to #4 camalot but don't forget the small gear for placements in the chimney.
hummerchine
  5.10b
hummerchine  
  5.10b
Plotz nailed it. Mar 10, 2017
David Bruneau
St. John
  5.9 PG13
David Bruneau   St. John
  5.9 PG13
The climbing is 5.9, but bold thru the chimney section. Bring small pro (RP's, ballnuts) for up higher in the chimney or expect some excitement... I found my self run-out facing outwards with a decent placement a foot out of reach. Sep 15, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Solid 5.10. Feels serious. I've seen climbers ground out on the opening slick liebacking. Hard to stop to place gear mid layback, since the rock is that special kind of castle Rock glass. Aug 22, 2016
S. Yi
Bellevue, WA
 
S. Yi   Bellevue, WA
 
Old school rating. First 10 ft. are tough - rock is slippery and requires some strenuous lay-backing. A #5 could come in handy if you don't like runouts. The chimney section is a little intimidating since the next opportunity for pro is about 10 ft up, but the moves in the chimney are secure. May 23, 2016
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
Steph Abegg   Bellingham, WA
This is probably my favorite route at Castle. The crack and chimney movements are akin to routes I've done in the Sierra. Apr 24, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
When the 1st free ascent was done in 1960, Ed Cooper considered this route 5.8. Like it's neighbor Angel it is harder now that it is slippery at the start.
The lower wide section protects well with a BD #4. After sliding that up with me, I get a #1 on the left wall and take the #4 for up higher. It is tricky to protect the chimney, can be done with small cams and brass nuts.
The first ascent team used wood blocks to protect the wide parts and placed 1 bolt, which I have never spotted the remains of, unless it is the 1/4" bolt near the top out.
I think it would be fair to say this would be 5.8 in Ca. or Colorado. Nov 20, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Very fun route! Old school climbing for sure but lots more pro besides just protecting the big crack. Not that either way is "right" but I belayed on the left side wall at 100'. This works great as you are on ring bolts, it's right at 100' and you can watch your partner climb the whole pitch. Continue to the top or rap with a 60m and have the TR set up for a quick lap on the 20 foot 5.10 finger crack. Jul 23, 2012
Daniel Coltrane
Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Daniel Coltrane   Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Definetly an "Old School" 5.9. Classic through the chimney section. Jul 6, 2011
Snodawg  
What a great climb, been waiting to do this climb and have now done it. Took a number 5 up with me and it was a huge waste. Jun 30, 2010
andyf
Tacoma, WA
andyf   Tacoma, WA
What makes this the "correct" finish? Per Beckey's 1965 Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas: "...climb 6 feet until the crux is passed (5.7-5.8). Another 10 feet reaches the top of the tower."

Not that it matters a flip where you choose to end up, but the anchor to the left was established for Dan's Dreadful Direct. Again per Beckey (1965): "About 100 feet up, just above and to the left of Jello Tower, a hanging belay was established from one of the bolts." Jun 26, 2010
The "correct" finish is actually to the anchor on the face to the left of the top of Jello Tower. Great climb! Jun 25, 2010
Drederek
  5.9
Drederek  
  5.9
Closer to a 100' to the chains atop Jello Tower but you can rap from them down the other side with a 50m rope. Jun 30, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A great climb! Sep 13, 2006