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Saber
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.4 from 189
votes
Routes in Upper Castle
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Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angel Dreads T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Blocks of Doom T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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By the Sea T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Directissima T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hangdog T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Saber Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saints T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short N' Sassy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 47.59968, -120.71235 |
| FA: | Pete Schoening |
| Page Views: | 12,808 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Jan 31, 2006 |
| Admins: | Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
First climbed in 1950, Saber begins from the far right side of Loggers ledge and reaches the top of Castle rock in 2 pitches. Look for a left angling ramp just to the right of a large, low roof. This is the start of Saber.
P1. Climb the left angling ramp to the base of a left facing dihedral. The rock in the dihedral has been polished to a slippery, disconcerting, mirror-like sheen. When you hit a diaganol crack heading up to the left follow it to Saber ledge. Belay from bolts. (~90 feet)
P2. A few easy moves (~5.5) on the left side of a wide chimney take you up onto emminently forgettable and blocky terrain. The climbing gets easier as you ascend, and I found myself on 4th or 3rd class terrain long before reaching the top of Castle rock (~190 feet).
I've stuck with the historical rating for this climb, which may be a bit of a sandbag-- a more realistic rating for the first pitch may be 5.6. Combined with the polished rock, this route is probably not the best choice for a fledgling trad leader. One star for history and for being an accesible moderate as well as a good place to booty gear, but I can't imagine wanting to do this twice.
21 Comments