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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 726 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tatsu Ota on Feb 19, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

Start is the same as Cat Burglar with the boulder move up onto the ramp. Take the crack leading into a thin seam under the roof on the face. Crux is pulling the roof. After a few pumpy moves the climbing gets easy and dirty from there up to Saber ledge

Location

Left of Canary up the face on thin seams through the route. Same start as Cat Burglar

Protection

Single rack of .2 to 2 BD should be fine. Two .75s can come in handy. Same anchors as Saber and Canary

Photos

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hummerchine
  5.11b/c PG13
hummerchine  
  5.11b/c PG13
Haha! Blake, you are even a better climber than I already knew since you find Handog to be similar in difficulty as MFO! And I mean that as a huge compliment!

For mere mortals such as I...Hangdog is WAY harder. And I think MFO is hard! I've probably led it a hundred times and every single time I feel like I'm going to fall...but I don't.

Hangdog...for me...lives in an entirely different universe of difficulty. I'm 50% on TR...took me decades to lead it ONCE. (After working the crap out of it on TR)

I can see that if you had an insane strength to weight ratio it would be a different story.

But back to mere mortals like me...I've onsighted hundreds of 5.11a routes over the 37 years I've been climbing. Hangdog isn't even close to something I could ever onsight!

My hardest onsight was 29 Palms in Josh...second hardest probably PegLeg in The Needles.

Hardest redpoints? Clay. Insomnia (Suicide). Red M and Ms. Trella (Kalymnos). Das Muzak. Those are all similar in grade to Hangdog...so maybe Hangdog is tied with my hardest leads...

I've climbed ROTC clean at least 200 times...mostly solo-TR, but plenty of redpoints and even a solo-lead. It's easy in comparison...but also a classic endurance problem compared to a really hard bouldering crux.

So that's my opinion. Awesome onsight Michal! And awesome that you climb so freaking hard Blake! May 8, 2016
michal
Everett WA
  5.11-
michal   Everett WA
  5.11-
Blake recommended this climb to me couple years ago. I thought 11a is perfect warmup (not good warm-up in hindsight) I recall going up to little roof n pulling into thin laybacks n placing somewhat blind pro. Did pull off on sight but got way flash pumped, then went and did DDD which is a great cerebral exercise. Thanks for recommendation Blake, would have not gone on it otherwise. Nice work on rp guys, crushing!! Apr 18, 2016
It's been onsighted.

On the Castle continuum, this one feels somewhere around the MF overhang in terms of difficulty. Easier than Das, Rainshadow, or No Such Thing. Pretty hard for .11a though! Nice work John & Tom. Apr 18, 2016
hummerchine
  5.11b/c PG13
hummerchine  
  5.11b/c PG13
Leading this route has been a huge goal of mine for literally decades...didn't know if I'd ever be able to do it. On TR I'm less than 50:50. This year I decided it was my goal of the year...finally got the redpoint yesterday, as did John Plotz. SICK! That's just huge for me. Hardest trad lead I've ever done. Guidebook says 5.11a no stars...I say 5.11d/5.12a 4.5 stars.

Btw...has this beast ever had an onsight? Apr 16, 2016
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
Cmon isn't this good ol' sandbagged Castle 11a..LOL Feb 27, 2015