Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m)
GPS: 47.59968, -120.71235
FA: unknown
Page Views: 191 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Moorad on Mar 21, 2024
Admins: Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

If you want to take Crack of Doom to the top and hate hanging belays, skip the chains and  go straight up from your last piece into the dirty 5.5 climbing of "Blocks of Doom"! Careful not to pull the blocks; they're numerous, loose, and all covered in fuzz.

The only reason to do this is if you want to get to the top of Castle in two pitches with a 60m rope without a hanging belay. You climb Crack of Doom plus another 100 ft, build a belay, then continue up the clean, SW arete to the summit (2nd pitch). The typical alternative is to traverse over to Canary, but that creates bad rope drag if you don't stop for the hanging belay atop Crack of Doom.

Location Suggest change

Straight up from your last piece on Crack of Doom. A dirty, tight-#4 / baggy-#3 crack shows the way.

Protection Suggest change

Whatever you have left from Crack of Doom. #2 or #3 and #0.5 sizes are good for building a belay at a nice stance on the arete.

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