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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: TM Herbert, Eric Bjornstad, R. Neufer, 1960.
Page Views: 4,251 total, 31/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

Climb straight up the dihedral, after the step across, then move left on to exposed face. From a ledge, several variations, to the top are possible.

Protection

Pro to 2".
I should have read all these comments. I was trying to find the direct route but thought I needed to go right from the alcove with the droppings. I ended up traversing an exposed 15-20ft right on small hand holds that felt more like 5.8. That put me back onto the regular Midway route just a bit below the ledge for the second belay. Oct 6, 2017
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Got some good beta from a local at the base for some route-finding. Continue up the corner instead of stepping right after the step-across. Once you get to the alcove with the poop (guano?) head left out onto the face and then up on good holds. From there it seemed like there were quite a few options; follow your nose. I was able to take a more-or-less-straight line.

I thought the climbing felt more exposed and a bit more consistent, offering a great alternative to the standard route. Oct 5, 2016
Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
Vikram Sahney   Seattle, WA
Here is a video showing some of Saber and Midway Direct.


youtu.be/mtcUBCtu-UQ Aug 29, 2016
Chris Merz
Bellevue, WA
 
Chris Merz   Bellevue, WA
 
Pro gets sparse on pitch one...unless you bring the camalot #4. Don't wear a pack else your pitch 1 will be miserable - sling it below you or just leave it at the base. The step off jello tower is classic! Descent is a walk off the top so bring approach shoes. Aug 13, 2016
totally stiff for a 5.6. Pretty sure this was a Becky route which explains the stiffness. Great climb though! It can just be overwhelming when someone is a 5.6 trad climber and they get on one of Becky's old routes to be welcomed with more challenge than anticipated. I did that first pitch when I first started trad and I was intimidated... Throw some strong howling winds through that OW in the corner and yea. I'd say be confident on 5.7/8. Then again, maybe it was just the wind. May 18, 2016
Stepping from Jello Tower is really fun. I thought the first pitch up to the top of Jello Tower was a bit stiff for 5.6 but it protected well by just sliding a #4. Great route. Jun 20, 2011