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Avg: 2.9 from 47 votes
FA: TM Herbert, Eric Bjornstad, R. Neufer, 1960.
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle
Climb straight up the dihedral, after the step across, then move left on to exposed face. From a ledge, several variations, to the top are possible.
Pro to 2".
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View of Pitch 1 - Chimney between Jello Tower on the left and Castle Rock. 2 bolts plus chains on the top of jello to belay off of.
1st pitch, I had trouble finding protection near the top, just couldnt reach the piton. I am a beginner though:)
Michelle topping out on Midway Direct
Looking down Midway to the South Face Tower and the Wenatchee River
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Stepping from Jello Tower is really fun. I thought the first pitch up to the top of Jello Tower was a bit stiff for 5.6 but it protected well by just sliding a #4. Great route.
Jun 20, 2011
totally stiff for a 5.6. Pretty sure this was a Becky route which explains the stiffness. Great climb though! It can just be overwhelming when someone is a 5.6 trad climber and they get on one of Becky's old routes to be welcomed with more challenge than anticipated. I did that first pitch when I first started trad and I was intimidated... Throw some strong howling winds through that OW in the corner and yea. I'd say be confident on 5.7/8. Then again, maybe it was just the wind.
May 18, 2016
Pro gets sparse on pitch one...unless you bring the camalot #4. Don't wear a pack else your pitch 1 will be miserable - sling it below you or just leave it at the base. The step off jello tower is classic! Descent is a walk off the top so bring approach shoes.
Aug 13, 2016
Here is a video showing some of Saber and Midway Direct.
Aug 29, 2016
Salt Lake City, UT
Got some good beta from a local at the base for some route-finding. Continue up the corner instead of stepping right after the step-across. Once you get to the alcove with the poop (guano?) head left out onto the face and then up on good holds. From there it seemed like there were quite a few options; follow your nose. I was able to take a more-or-less-straight line.
I thought the climbing felt more exposed and a bit more consistent, offering a great alternative to the standard route.
Oct 5, 2016
I should have read all these comments. I was trying to find the direct route but thought I needed to go right from the alcove with the droppings. I ended up traversing an exposed 15-20ft right on small hand holds that felt more like 5.8. That put me back onto the regular Midway route just a bit below the ledge for the second belay.
Oct 6, 2017