Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Midway Direct

5.6, Trad,  Avg: 2.9 from 47 votes
FA: TM Herbert, Eric Bjornstad, R. Neufer, 1960.
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle

Description

Climb straight up the dihedral, after the step across, then move left on to exposed face. From a ledge, several variations, to the top are possible.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of Pitch 1 - Chimney between Jello Tower on the left and Castle Rock. 2 bolts plus chains on the top of jello to belay off of.
[Hide Photo] View of Pitch 1 - Chimney between Jello Tower on the left and Castle Rock. 2 bolts plus chains on the top of jello to belay off of.
1st pitch, I had trouble finding protection near the top, just couldnt reach the piton. I am a beginner though:)
[Hide Photo] 1st pitch, I had trouble finding protection near the top, just couldnt reach the piton. I am a beginner though:)
Michelle topping out on Midway Direct
[Hide Photo] Michelle topping out on Midway Direct
Looking down Midway to the South Face Tower and the Wenatchee River
[Hide Photo] Looking down Midway to the South Face Tower and the Wenatchee River

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Stepping from Jello Tower is really fun. I thought the first pitch up to the top of Jello Tower was a bit stiff for 5.6 but it protected well by just sliding a #4. Great route. Jun 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] totally stiff for a 5.6. Pretty sure this was a Becky route which explains the stiffness. Great climb though! It can just be overwhelming when someone is a 5.6 trad climber and they get on one of Becky's old routes to be welcomed with more challenge than anticipated. I did that first pitch when I first started trad and I was intimidated... Throw some strong howling winds through that OW in the corner and yea. I'd say be confident on 5.7/8. Then again, maybe it was just the wind. May 18, 2016
Chris Merz
Bellevue, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Pro gets sparse on pitch one...unless you bring the camalot #4. Don't wear a pack else your pitch 1 will be miserable - sling it below you or just leave it at the base. The step off jello tower is classic! Descent is a walk off the top so bring approach shoes. Aug 13, 2016
Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Here is a video showing some of Saber and Midway Direct.


youtu.be/mtcUBCtu-UQ Aug 29, 2016
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Got some good beta from a local at the base for some route-finding. Continue up the corner instead of stepping right after the step-across. Once you get to the alcove with the poop (guano?) head left out onto the face and then up on good holds. From there it seemed like there were quite a few options; follow your nose. I was able to take a more-or-less-straight line.

I thought the climbing felt more exposed and a bit more consistent, offering a great alternative to the standard route. Oct 5, 2016
[Hide Comment] I should have read all these comments. I was trying to find the direct route but thought I needed to go right from the alcove with the droppings. I ended up traversing an exposed 15-20ft right on small hand holds that felt more like 5.8. That put me back onto the regular Midway route just a bit below the ledge for the second belay. Oct 6, 2017