Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ed Cooper, ™ Herbert, 1960. FFA- Jim Madsen, Ron Burgner, 1966
Page Views: 653 total · 11/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This route is listed as 10b, I think it is more like 10++, harder then Brass Balls- which for me is more like Crack of Doom- 10a.
Not often climbed, but worth doing.
There are 5 routes that go through the same roof.
From the left is Body and soul which still has 2 pins at the roof and is thin,
and then Devil's Fright, which is more of wide fingers to tight hands crack at the roof move.

Location

Start either on the ramp to Winter Solstice, or the cracks more directly below which are like 5.8.

Protection

Standard rack to 2", bolted anchor. Crux roof move is fingers-tight hands crack. Once you get through the roof you could shove a #3 in a wide slot on the right.

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
I tapped on the angle piton just above the flaring hand jam with a rock. It's in there solid. However, I will say there's a perfect 1" cam placement directly below it that doesn't ruin your hand jam. Sep 1, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
I cleaned 3 old pins, one came out with my fingers, one with 2 sideways taps with hammer, and yes the smaller angle was pretty solid, but gave up it's home of many years- maybe the 1st ascent folks want them back?
My opinion is there is good pro all around and the pins are obsolete, some will say it has historical significance. While I agree, and like seeing old pins along the way- especially the ring pins, like the 3 on the Saints route.These could be passed without much trouble, 2 were dangerous and the one good angle was right where you could get finger locks or a cam. Sep 9, 2015