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Routes in Upper Castle

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: Fred Beckey, Don Gordon, John Rupley, 1957.
Page Views: 1,681 total · 12/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

A weird move onto a ramp leads to cracks leading to Saber Ledge. The second pitch leads up and right.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
This route is somewhat confusing to many people. Make sure you figure out where you go before you start. It follows a slanting ledge system, up and right then goes around a corner and up a left facing corner and left to a ledge with a bunch of ancient pitons. Belay here. Second pitch goes up and to the right.

If you are not careful, rope drag can be a real problem on this route. Aug 21, 2009
Hahahaha!

5.6 aye? Maybe after the first move! Jun 30, 2014
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
Very hard route to follow. I got off route into some 5.9-ish territory. Also had horrendous rope drag. Take the advice of being sure where you are going before you start out! Jul 9, 2014
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
 
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
 
Doesn't get much traffic from the looks of it, but really fun moves. Tops out at the big rap rings of Canary. Lots of old pins on this line. May 17, 2015
Jason George
Portland, OR
  5.7
Jason George   Portland, OR
  5.7
No idea where this route is actually supposed to go. The start is very tricky, follows an easy ledge, and then i'm not sure if you're supposed to follow a thin crack on the left or traverse right and move up the face? Either way you go it's way harder than a 5.6. May 2, 2016
S. Yi
Bellevue, WA
 
S. Yi   Bellevue, WA
 
Got my turd burgled on Cat Burglar.

I think I found the dirty 5.9 variation like many others. The first move off the deck is pretty ridiculous for a 5.6. Not ashamed to say I tugged on a piece to get onto the ledge.

Doesn't seem to get much traffic. Beta is very confusing for this route. Not recommended. May 23, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
I think what everyone is missing is that in 1957 standing on your belayers shoulders or hands was standard practice. I got it myself, but being 6' 2" helps. I also went up the 5.9 first time, backed down and went around the corner- all seemed 5.6-5.7. May 23, 2016

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