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Cat Burglar

5.6, Trad,  Avg: 1.8 from 17 votes
FA: Fred Beckey, Don Gordon, John Rupley, 1957.
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle

Description

A weird move onto a ramp leads to cracks leading to Saber Ledge. The second pitch leads up and right.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ledge at start of Cat Burglar on Castle Rock.
[Hide Photo] Ledge at start of Cat Burglar on Castle Rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
[Hide Comment] This route is somewhat confusing to many people. Make sure you figure out where you go before you start. It follows a slanting ledge system, up and right then goes around a corner and up a left facing corner and left to a ledge with a bunch of ancient pitons. Belay here. Second pitch goes up and to the right.

If you are not careful, rope drag can be a real problem on this route. Aug 21, 2009
hummerchine
[Hide Comment] Hahahaha!

5.6 aye? Maybe after the first move! Jun 30, 2014
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Very hard route to follow. I got off route into some 5.9-ish territory. Also had horrendous rope drag. Take the advice of being sure where you are going before you start out! Jul 9, 2014
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Doesn't get much traffic from the looks of it, but really fun moves. Tops out at the big rap rings of Canary. Lots of old pins on this line. May 17, 2015
Jason Satein
Portland, OR
  5.7
[Hide Comment] No idea where this route is actually supposed to go. The start is very tricky, follows an easy ledge, and then i'm not sure if you're supposed to follow a thin crack on the left or traverse right and move up the face? Either way you go it's way harder than a 5.6. May 2, 2016
Steve Y
Bellevue, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Got my turd burgled on Cat Burglar.

I think I found the dirty 5.9 variation like many others. The first move off the deck is pretty ridiculous for a 5.6. Not ashamed to say I tugged on a piece to get onto the ledge.

Doesn't seem to get much traffic. Beta is very confusing for this route. Not recommended. May 23, 2016
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I think what everyone is missing is that in 1957 standing on your belayers shoulders or hands was standard practice. I got it myself, but being 6' 2" helps. I also went up the 5.9 first time, backed down and went around the corner- all seemed 5.6-5.7. May 23, 2016
Ronald Malavotte
Wittmann, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] This route is confusing and very easy to get onto very difficult climbing 5.9 above my skill level at this time, as this is my first year. I prefer Alpine climbing however this is a good place to develop and practice rock climbing and in this case route finding. We followed a ledge system that has a slant. You climb up and right then around a corner and climb a left facing corner. Climb left to a ledge with several old pitons, to finish the climb. It’s two pitches and if on the correct route 5.6. May 13, 2020