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Avg: 1.7 from 13 votes
FA: Fred Beckey, Don Gordon, John Rupley, 1957.
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle
A weird move onto a ramp leads to cracks leading to Saber Ledge. The second pitch leads up and right.
Pro to 2".
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Ledge at start of Cat Burglar on Castle Rock.
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Costa Mesa, CA
This route is somewhat confusing to many people. Make sure you figure out where you go before you start. It follows a slanting ledge system, up and right then goes around a corner and up a left facing corner and left to a ledge with a bunch of ancient pitons. Belay here. Second pitch goes up and to the right.
If you are not careful, rope drag can be a real problem on this route.
Aug 21, 2009
5.6 aye? Maybe after the first move!
Jun 30, 2014
Las Vegas, NV
Very hard route to follow. I got off route into some 5.9-ish territory. Also had horrendous rope drag. Take the advice of being sure where you are going before you start out!
Jul 9, 2014
Doesn't get much traffic from the looks of it, but really fun moves. Tops out at the big rap rings of Canary. Lots of old pins on this line.
May 17, 2015
No idea where this route is actually supposed to go. The start is very tricky, follows an easy ledge, and then i'm not sure if you're supposed to follow a thin crack on the left or traverse right and move up the face? Either way you go it's way harder than a 5.6.
May 2, 2016
Got my turd burgled on Cat Burglar.
I think I found the dirty 5.9 variation like many others. The first move off the deck is pretty ridiculous for a 5.6. Not ashamed to say I tugged on a piece to get onto the ledge.
Doesn't seem to get much traffic. Beta is very confusing for this route. Not recommended.
May 23, 2016
I think what everyone is missing is that in 1957 standing on your belayers shoulders or hands was standard practice. I got it myself, but being 6' 2" helps. I also went up the 5.9 first time, backed down and went around the corner- all seemed 5.6-5.7.
May 23, 2016