Elevation: 1,688 ft
GPS: 47.6, -120.712 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 97,806 total · 553/month
Shared By: ScottH on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

Description

Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation.

Castle Rock faces predominately southwest and can get a lot of sun. The rock is split by Logger's Ledge, a wide ledge halfway up the formation. Climbs on upper Castle begin from this ledge, which is reached by an obvious trail from the parking lot. Climbs on the lower half begin near the parking lot.

To descend from climbs which reach the summit of Castle Rock, follow a good climber's trail off the back of the formation down to Loggers Ledge.

Getting There

Drive approximately 2 miles west up Highway 2 from Leavenworth. There is a large dirt parking lot on the "north" side of the road. From this parking lot, a signed trail leads to Logger's Ledge and upper Castle Rock. The approach is 10-15 minutes.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 127
Saber
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 175
Midway
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 55
Midway Direct
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
Old Gray Mare
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 142
Catapult
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 199
Canary
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
South Face, Jello Tower
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
The Bone
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 109
Damnation Crack
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 53
Crack of Doom
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Angel
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Brass Balls
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
The Nose, of Jello Tower
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
MF Overhang
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
MF Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Saber Upper Castle
 127
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Midway Upper Castle
 175
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Midway Direct Upper Castle
 55
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Old Gray Mare Upper Castle
 43
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Catapult Lower Castle
 142
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Canary Upper Castle
 199
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
South Face, Jello Tower Upper Castle
 106
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Bone Lower Castle
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Damnation Crack Upper Castle
 109
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Crack of Doom Upper Castle
 53
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Angel Upper Castle
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Brass Balls Lower Castle
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Nose, of Jello Tower Upper Castle
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
MF Overhang Upper Castle
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
MF Direct Upper Castle
 20
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

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