Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Curt Haire, Mike Steele 2017
Page Views: 260 total · 45/month
Shared By: Perry Gowdy on May 3, 2021
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

From the Leavenworth guide book:

"Just right of the Midway chimney, this route connects a trio of bolts leading to a clean crack crux."

This route starts on the same belay ledge as Midway, just over to the right about 10-15 feet. There are three bolts slanting up and to the right that help protects some slope-y, slabby, face. After passing the three bolts, you'll get to the beginning of a clean, finger/thin hand crack. This protects very well and getting into and over the bulge at the bottom of the crack is the crux. After a 3-4 move sequence, you'll hit a bomber, incut jug in the crack and the route eases up.

Definitely worth doing if you're in the area. I'd almost give it three stars, but the climbing down low is mostly uninteresting. 

Location

This route is on Upper Castle to the right of Midway. It can be identified by the first three bolts leading up to the right of the Midway route. You'll belay from a fairly small ledge.

Protection

Small cams with a 2" or 3" for the top. A couple small/medium nuts can help sew it up as well.

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