Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Curt Haire, Mike Steele 2017|
|Page Views:||260 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Perry Gowdy on May 3, 2021|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
From the Leavenworth guide book:
"Just right of the Midway chimney, this route connects a trio of bolts leading to a clean crack crux."
This route starts on the same belay ledge as Midway, just over to the right about 10-15 feet. There are three bolts slanting up and to the right that help protects some slope-y, slabby, face. After passing the three bolts, you'll get to the beginning of a clean, finger/thin hand crack. This protects very well and getting into and over the bulge at the bottom of the crack is the crux. After a 3-4 move sequence, you'll hit a bomber, incut jug in the crack and the route eases up.
Definitely worth doing if you're in the area. I'd almost give it three stars, but the climbing down low is mostly uninteresting.
This route is on Upper Castle to the right of Midway. It can be identified by the first three bolts leading up to the right of the Midway route. You'll belay from a fairly small ledge.