Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Rob Knudsen, Dick "Duck" Novikoff, Greg Olsen, 1978
Page Views: 743 total · 9/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 20, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

There are several variations I have done off the Saber ledge. This is described as a horizontal traverse after going up the Saber Chimney to join Canary after the bolted section. The book does not describe where or how far up Saber the horizontal is, maybe about 30' I have traversed a steep wall and come out on the blocky arete right of Canary.
Another good variation is to go straight up the face between Canary and Saber from the Saber ledge. It is still 5.9, but has some tricky steep face climbing and watch out for fragile flakes, instead of joining Canary, keep going up blocky arete, veering more right and come to a bolted anchor on the face left of Saber inside corner.

Location

at the top of pitch 1 of Saber or Canary on large ledge.

Protection

standard rack, plenty of long slings..

Photos

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