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Routes in Upper Castle

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rob Knudsen, Dick "Duck" Novikoff, Greg Olsen, 1978
Page Views: 456 total · 8/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 20, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

There are several variations I have done off the Saber ledge. This is described as a horizontal traverse after going up the Saber Chimney to join Canary after the bolted section. The book does not describe where or how far up Saber the horizontal is, maybe about 30' I have traversed a steep wall and come out on the blocky arete right of Canary.
Another good variation is to go straight up the face between Canary and Saber from the Saber ledge. It is still 5.9, but has some tricky steep face climbing and watch out for fragile flakes, instead of joining Canary, keep going up blocky arete, veering more right and come to a bolted anchor on the face left of Saber inside corner.

Location

at the top of pitch 1 of Saber or Canary on large ledge.

Protection

standard rack, plenty of long slings..

Photos

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
Jon Nelson- care to elaborate on this? Aug 21, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
I'll have to ask the other guy. I don't recall ever doing an FA on Castle.

OK, so the other guy spoke up. It was in fact three other guys on the FA. See the updated info. I'm rather doubting though that they are going to elaborate on the description. Sorry about that. Aug 21, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
Wow, thats pretty funny, also in Viktor's book is Jim Nelson on FA of Exotic Dancer- which he says it was not him.
I always wondered about the bolted anchor that is on the buttress partway up the 2nd pitch of Sabar- but too far away and would not been placed for that route- figured it was done for Orange Peel.
Thanks for looking this up. Aug 29, 2015

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