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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA Dan Davis FFA Jim Madsen
Page Views: 3,173 total · 22/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

The crack climbs an interesting line up a wide crack and through a roof. The crux moves are physical but short lived. Once past the roof move right and link up with Canary.

Location

The route can be accessed on the ledge system to the right of the Jello Tower. Be very careful as this rock is slick and has been the site of accidents. It is a smart idea to set an anchor on the ledge for the belayer.

Protection

Pro to #4 camalot
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
 
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
 
As other people have mentioned, a #4 is useful for protecting the roof move. A light rack from 0.5 - #3 should suffice after pulling the roof, and the crux takes a bomber #0.75 C4. Apr 24, 2015
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
Awesome to link old grey mare with this in one long pitch as Shaun suggested. I brought a 4# but not necessary also brought doubles of mid range, and again not necessary. Jun 13, 2014
At the top and slightly left of Crack of doom is a set of chain anchors that allow a 60 meter rope to reach back to loggers ledge. Great top rope set up!

Link Old Grey Mare into the crack to the right of the roof on COD for an awesome varied pitch! Feb 24, 2013
Chris Keefe  
 
Climbed comfortably with gear to 3". The moves around the overhanging roof crack (the main 4" piece) are protectable with mid-sized C4s. Jul 22, 2012
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
The access described above is basically the start of Winter Solstice. Another way to get to Crack of Doom is to climb the enjoyable route Old Gray Mare. Aug 21, 2009