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> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Tumwater Canyon
> Castle Rock
> Upper Castle
Lucky Charms
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 0.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Upper Castle
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Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angel Dreads T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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By the Sea T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Directissima T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MF Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Saber Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saints T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short N' Sassy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 653 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Keefe on Aug 25, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
This thin corner crack offers mediocre gear, uninspiring feet, and plenty of sand, moss, etc. If you like scaring yourself on dirty, poorly protected, short lines, then Lucky Charms is for you.
Begins in the right-facing dihedral uphill and to climber's left of OGM, and follows the dirty finger crack upward, trending eventually rightward to finish at the ledge below Crack of Doom.
Begins in the right-facing dihedral uphill and to climber's left of OGM, and follows the dirty finger crack upward, trending eventually rightward to finish at the ledge below Crack of Doom.
Location
The result of a freshman routefinding error, we stumbled on Lucky Charms while looking for the start to Old Grey Mare. Begins in the right-facing dihedral uphill and to climber's left of OGM, and follows the dirty finger crack up.
Crack of Doom makes a wonderful finish to this unpleasant start.
Crack of Doom makes a wonderful finish to this unpleasant start.
Photos
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