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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 116 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Keefe on Aug 25, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This thin corner crack offers mediocre gear, uninspiring feet, and plenty of sand, moss, etc. If you like scaring yourself on dirty, poorly protected, short lines, then Lucky Charms is for you.

Begins in the right-facing dihedral uphill and to climber's left of OGM, and follows the dirty finger crack upward, trending eventually rightward to finish at the ledge below Crack of Doom.

Location

The result of a freshman routefinding error, we stumbled on Lucky Charms while looking for the start to Old Grey Mare. Begins in the right-facing dihedral uphill and to climber's left of OGM, and follows the dirty finger crack up.

Crack of Doom makes a wonderful finish to this unpleasant start.

Protection

Gear to 2", including some small stuff.

Photos

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The description makes this sound really bad. It's not that bad, and probably the best way to reach the base of Satanic Verses. Not worthy enough to be a pitch on it's own, but there's some good locks and it's quick fun en route to the slick white rock above. Jul 17, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
I think this is pretty fun and not too dirty by Wa. standards. A good way up to the routes to the left of crack of doom. Nov 11, 2013