Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Michael Adams and Dan Lepska
Page Views: 568 total · 10/month
Shared By: kerwinl on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Just to the right of the bolted line of Das Musak lays a gear route that rarely sees an ascent. Step off the boulder and clip the first bolt to protect a ground fall, a few hard moves leads to a jug and a perfect 0.5. Continue up and trend right to pull the first roof, a few more cruxes remain.

If it feels hard for the grade you are probably right, felt more like 11c then 11b in my book. May look a little dirty, but it is clean where it counts.

Possible to reach the top anchor from either Saints or the top of Das Musak.

Protection

A 0.5 is mandatory to protect the moves to the first roof, as well as a #1 to protect the roof. Bring many finger sized pieces.

Doubles from green alien (0.3) to #1, maybe and extra green alien equivalent.

Photos

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Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
 
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
 
FWIW, I place a bomber slightly hidden #2 pulling out of the 1st bulge (after the start). Mar 2, 2015
FA, Michael Adams and Dan Lepska Apr 5, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Alright Tom!

Just a month ago, you thought it impossible for you to lead, and then you go and lead it a month later.

Is this the power of practice on TR? Jun 5, 2016
michal
Everett WA
michal   Everett WA
Yes it's been onsighted Jun 5, 2016
hummerchine
  5.11d R
hummerchine  
  5.11d R
Key pro hidden in horizontal...screw it up and die. Jun 6, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11c/d PG13
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
  5.11c/d PG13
I just want to add a couple more comments on this fine route.
1) After the initial bouldery start, I go left under the roof and pull over on highly polished Castle Rock holds.
2) Once you overcome the slick jugs, take a seat in the small alcove. Read the paper. Send a text. Take a nap. It's comfy in there.
3) The final crux over a small roof is committing and perplexing. There are sucker holds that will shut you down if you try to use them. May 31, 2018