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Routes in Upper Castle

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, Wes Grande, Jack Schwabland, 1948.
Page Views: 9,634 total · 66/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006 with updates from skye h
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

P1: Climb the chimney on the right side of Jello Tower to the bolted anchor at the top of the tower.

P2 (and P3 if you shorten P2): Step back across the top of the chimney and head right and up a wide crack to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2"
This is a great traditional free solo. Aug 23, 2009
Ed kelly  
 
A fun historic climb. Pretty straightforward climbing with mostly good pro. I thought the direct version was a little better. At least when I was there it was impossible to hear your partner on the final pitch, even splitting it into 3 pitches trying to avoid just that issue. So have a plan in place. Beautiful view, very cool if the salmon are running and you can see them in the river 100's of feet below you. Jul 30, 2013
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.6
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.6
The crux of the first pitch comes near the top where you need to transition from a really nice ledge to stemming between two walls with polished holes. It took me a couple mins to psyche myself up, but I was able to get a tiny cam into one of the horizontal cracks before being able to reach and clip a piton wedged in one of the cracks. Fun climbing! Sep 8, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.5
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.5
Midway holds the distinction of being the first "modern" crag pitch in Wa.In 1948- 1960's this was considered 5.4. When Fred did this a couple of years ago he thought it was hard, maybe 5.7.The first pitch is pretty slippery, but if you use chimney technique and find the stemming mid way and chimney out the exit it is a lot easier.
Climbers seem to get lost on the 2nd pitch, it could be done in at least 3 different ways, all about the same grade and gear. The original line after crossing the void follows some old pins that can be hard to spot till on a big ledge, about 100', here is the improbable looking right trending traverse with a ring pin. It looks harder then 5.5, might be 5.7, but turns out to be easier then it looks. keep lower on the traverse to find pro till in wide gully like corner, follow this out veering right on ramp like crack to boulders at top. May 20, 2014
Josh Golden Eagle  
  5.6
We used #4 cam on pitch 1. Some people might prefer having a 2nd #4 cam for 1st pitch. Jul 8, 2014
Tine Wahl
5.8
Tine Wahl  
5.8
If you’re used to climbing at Vantage and Exit 38, this is the equivalent of a 5.8 rather than an easy 5.6.

We ran into a guide climbing next to us who said this is the route he takes his clients up if they request a good 5.8 multipitch. I can confirm this, as I’m a new climber usually doing 5.7s and this route brutalized me. I could not have completed it without hang-dogging most moves.

The “chimney” is small and you don’t actually climb inside it, just alongside it. You can use it as a crack.

If you have trouble getting up the “chimney”, the next two pitches are even harder. The top of the chimney is your last chance to rap down without leaving gear.

Bring radios because you can’t hear each other on Pitch 2 and 3.

Pitch 1 is bolted. Pitch 2 and 3 are not bolted and need trad anchors. You can walk off the top down to the base of the route in 15 mins. The approach from the car is about another 15 mins.

The end of Pitch 3 is kind of runout for maybe 20 feet until you top off.

The hardest part of this climb is mentally doing the first move of Pitch 2. You have to stand up on the tiny top of Jello Tower and then stretch your hands and foot across a large gap of open air. If you don’t make it, you fall down into the rocky chimney.

Pitch 2 and 3 have many ledges that are a great quick break, but you could potentially hit if you fall when leading. Jun 2, 2018
Chase Giltner
Seattle, WA
Chase Giltner   Seattle, WA
Just to make a slight clarification to Tine's comment, Pitch1 is NOT bolted, what they mean is there is a bolted anchor at the top of Jello tower. 2 days ago

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