Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, Wes Grande, Jack Schwabland, 1948.
Page Views: 8,133 total, 60/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


102 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

P1: Climb the chimney on the right side of Jello Tower to the bolted anchor at the top of the tower.

P2 (and P3 if you shorten P2): Step back across the top of the chimney and head right and up a wide crack to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2"
Josh Golden Eagle  
  5.6
We used #4 cam on pitch 1. Some people might prefer having a 2nd #4 cam for 1st pitch. Jul 8, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.5
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.5
Midway holds the distinction of being the first "modern" crag pitch in Wa.In 1948- 1960's this was considered 5.4. When Fred did this a couple of years ago he thought it was hard, maybe 5.7.The first pitch is pretty slippery, but if you use chimney technique and find the stemming mid way and chimney out the exit it is a lot easier.
Climbers seem to get lost on the 2nd pitch, it could be done in at least 3 different ways, all about the same grade and gear. The original line after crossing the void follows some old pins that can be hard to spot till on a big ledge, about 100', here is the improbable looking right trending traverse with a ring pin. It looks harder then 5.5, might be 5.7, but turns out to be easier then it looks. keep lower on the traverse to find pro till in wide gully like corner, follow this out veering right on ramp like crack to boulders at top. May 20, 2014
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.6
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.6
The crux of the first pitch comes near the top where you need to transition from a really nice ledge to stemming between two walls with polished holes. It took me a couple mins to psyche myself up, but I was able to get a tiny cam into one of the horizontal cracks before being able to reach and clip a piton wedged in one of the cracks. Fun climbing! Sep 8, 2013
Ed kelly  
 
A fun historic climb. Pretty straightforward climbing with mostly good pro. I thought the direct version was a little better. At least when I was there it was impossible to hear your partner on the final pitch, even splitting it into 3 pitches trying to avoid just that issue. So have a plan in place. Beautiful view, very cool if the salmon are running and you can see them in the river 100's of feet below you. Jul 30, 2013
This is a great traditional free solo. Aug 23, 2009