Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ed Cooper, Ron Priebe, Bruce Gibbs,1959, 1st Free ascent: Eric Bjornstad, Ed Cooper, 1960
Page Views: 695 total · 11/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 23, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is thought provoking tricky climbing. Not a great first 5.8 lead.
This could be done in 2 or 3 pitches and you could avoid most of the upper Saber pitch by climbing further right.

Location

starts the same as the right hand start of Saber, veers right where Saber goes left. Be sure to protect this right finger traverse past ancient piton to LFC layback up and left around small roof ( Crux) up arrete of buttress, either belay on pedestal with view of Saber, or continue up to big ledge .A big roof looms overhead to the right, traverse left around roof to easy 5th class climbing to summit.

Protection

standard rack to 3". many small cams and nuts. Long slings for rope drag. All gear anchors

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