Type: Trad
FA: Dan Davis (1960s)
Page Views: 691 total · 6/month
Shared By: Brian Hench on Aug 21, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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29 Opinions

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Route Description

Climb the buttress to the left of the first pitch of Canary and move left to a ledge. This puts one at the start of Crack of Doom.


One bolt and one fixed piton plus small cams and stoppers.


Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
Route protects much better than it appears from the ground. This route doesn't get as much traffic as it deserves, probably because most believe the only way to the top is Crack of Doom, 5.10b. Actually, one could choose to continue on Winter Solstice by going left on the ledge system to join that route. Aug 21, 2009
Super fun route! A few wires and small cams supplement the bolts on Old Grey Mare.

Above and slightly left of Crack Of Doom is a set of chain anchors that allows a 60 meter rope to reach back to loggers ledge.

Linking Old Grey Mare with Crack of Doom is one of my favorite pitches at Castle Rock. Feb 24, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
FA: Dan Davis, mid 1960's.
Also worth trying is the rightward traverse into 2nd pitch of Canary, or continue past Canary and go up to anchor of Orange Peel. Many long slings, even on the bolts to help with the rope drag. Maybe 5.8 or 5.9
I like what J. Plotz says" full on for 5.8", this is a puzzle of a route. Oct 23, 2013
Joe Petroske
North Bend, WA
Joe Petroske   North Bend, WA
Did this while waiting to get on Canary. I didn't lead, but the leader didn't see any anchors on this route, and instead built a belay on an old piton and some gear. Maybe the route continues up further that we thought? May 16, 2017