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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Dan Davis (1960s)
Page Views: 466 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brian Hench on Aug 21, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Route Description

Climb the buttress to the left of the first pitch of Canary and move left to a ledge. This puts one at the start of Crack of Doom.

Protection

One bolt and one fixed piton plus small cams and stoppers.

Photos

Joe Petroske
North Bend, WA
Joe Petroske   North Bend, WA
Did this while waiting to get on Canary. I didn't lead, but the leader didn't see any anchors on this route, and instead built a belay on an old piton and some gear. Maybe the route continues up further that we thought? May 16, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
FA: Dan Davis, mid 1960's.
Also worth trying is the rightward traverse into 2nd pitch of Canary, or continue past Canary and go up to anchor of Orange Peel. Many long slings, even on the bolts to help with the rope drag. Maybe 5.8 or 5.9
I like what J. Plotz says" full on for 5.8", this is a puzzle of a route. Oct 23, 2013
Super fun route! A few wires and small cams supplement the bolts on Old Grey Mare.

Above and slightly left of Crack Of Doom is a set of chain anchors that allows a 60 meter rope to reach back to loggers ledge.

Linking Old Grey Mare with Crack of Doom is one of my favorite pitches at Castle Rock. Feb 24, 2013
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
 
Route protects much better than it appears from the ground. This route doesn't get as much traffic as it deserves, probably because most believe the only way to the top is Crack of Doom, 5.10b. Actually, one could choose to continue on Winter Solstice by going left on the ledge system to join that route. Aug 21, 2009