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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kyle O'Meara
Page Views: 704 total, 19/month
Shared By: Sol Wertkin on Dec 13, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

Perhaps the "hardest" route at Castle Rock, Rainshadow Direct had gone though a complex history to become the classic sport climb that it is today.

Originally a 2-pitch A3 aid climb put up by Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, and Jim Stuart, it was freed during the great Ltown renaissace of the mid-80's by Gred Child, Matt Kerns, and Jim Yoder. Former PNW crusher Kyle O'Meara envisioned a direct start up beautiful white rock which would allow the route to be climbed in one pitch. Unfortunatly, Kyle ran out of bolts, and was only able to sink in the first three. Nonetheless it didnt keep Kyle from freeing the line with a stick clip to start and traditional pro (a few cams and a sea of manky fixed pins) through the upper crux bulge. This half-finished pseudo-"traditional" version saw possibly just one additional free ascent over the next few years. In the spring of 2014, Dave Morales, added the missing couple of bolts to the direct start, replaced the manky fixed pins through the upper crux with bolts, and added a lower 2-bolt anchor.

The route begins with beautiful climbing using perfect edges and side-pulls on aesthetic white stone. From a midway rest ledge a perplexing bouldery crux leads to a more moderate finish up a shallow corner system.

Location

Just left of Daz Muzak from the top of the same approach boulder.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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A slightly easier and probably better version (.12a?) steps right on the big ledge and finishes via Das Muzak rather than the bizarre boulder problem on Rainshadow. Aug 17, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks -

It is fun to read a little about the history of a route. This inspires me to try and add a bit to some of my additions. Dec 15, 2014
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
 
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
 
Yep Jon, Super Dave himself. I got the spelling from Kramar's old Leavenworth guide, I will correct it.

Not sure on the bolt count, maybe Dave will chime in or I will update it in the spring. Dec 13, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Very nice description Sol, thanks.

Two questions though-
- Is this Dave Morolos the same as Dave Morales?

- How many bolts on the full pitch? Dec 13, 2014