Avg: 3.3 from 225 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Fred Beckey, Dave Collins, Don Gordon|
|Page Views:||17,225 total · 90/month|
|Shared By:||ScottH on Jan 26, 2006|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Approximately 100 feet to the left of Saber, a short section of face climbing leads to a right facing dihedral and a broken crack system that reaches the left side of Saber ledge. This is the start of Canary.
P1. Begin by climbing approximately 15 feet of unprotected face to the base of a right facing dihedral. This section is not trivial, but the holds are positive and it is no harder than 5.7. Alternatively, it may be possible to begin in a small dihedral to the left and traverse right to gain the crack system at the top of the face. From the top of the face, follow the dihedral and subsequent crack systems up with good gear. Ascend until you are under the giant roof, then break right onto Saber ledge at the top of the crack system. This pitch is the technical crux of the climb, culminating in the moves up and onto Saber Ledge (5.8). Belay from gear or the giant eyebolts on the right of Saber Ledge.
P2. From Saber ledge, contemplate what lies ahead. The second pitch begins with instant exposure, and the airy step off Saber ledge may be the pyschological crux of the climb. Begin by traversing obvious holds leading left and slightly up from Saber ledge. Though intimidating, the traverse is easier than it looks, and giant holds await you on the arete. It is possible to protect the traverse with a reasonable small alien on the face, otherwise it may be possible to place large gear (with long slings!) above Saber ledge before beginning. Upon reaching the arete, climb past two bolts and follow your nose and your gear on increasingly easier climbing to the top of the formation. Like many routes on upper Castle, the exact line is not obvious; expect some runouts on easier terrain. We were able to reach the summit with a 60m rope; a 50m would be somewhat short.
To descend, follow the trail off the back of the summit to Logger's Ledge.