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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,876 total, 21/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Aug 23, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This ultra-classic, super-short finger-crack is quite a popular line at castle and seldom feels very easy. There's a good rest at the handjam pods high on the route. Some consider it cheating to reach out to the rail at any point that is not the very top of the horn. Also, watch out on warm days as the crack and the super-polished footholds can get very greasy. Technically the route continues up to a rap anchor and several more pitches to the top of Castle Rock, but this is rarely climbed. There is a route description for this in the Leavenworth guide.

Location

Very obvious at the base of Upper Castle, just left of the intimidating Damnation Crack.

Protection

Several small cams. Typically the green, yellow, and grey aliens work great. Also bring two shoulder length slings to sling around the horn at the top of the crack (for the anchor). From the ground, you can pretty easily flip the slings off the anchor with the rope when you're done TRing the route.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
FA- Pete Schoening, Jim Henry, 1950's
FFA- Fred Beckey, Don Gordon, early 1960's.- they considered it 5.8
Climb the upper pitch, it is good. May 19, 2014
Thad Arnold
Oregon
 
Thad Arnold   Oregon
 
Ditto what others have said about the offwidth being fun and not actually offwidth-y. May 23, 2013
Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
 
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
 
I thought the 5.7 upper pitches were harder than the crack...but my partner disagrees.

The "ow" is very easy, look around for other options.
I just wish the finger crack went on for another 100 feet!

The rest of the route is definitely worth doing. Aug 15, 2012
Kevin Peter  
 
Excellent route. Approximately 3/4 the way up there is a wide constriction. A #8 BD Hex (blue) is a match fit for this and will moor an aircraft carrier. My partner and I were easily able to sling the horn at the top (bomber) and retrieve them with a flip of the rope. Definitely recommended! May 10, 2012
Colin Bartholomew
WASHINGTON
Colin Bartholomew   WASHINGTON
I think that off-width is definitely protectable with something smaller. A number 2 or 3 might work. Jun 19, 2010
Rafe
  5.10b
Rafe  
  5.10b
The most polished crack I've ever set my fingers in and toes on. Felt harder than .10b when you enter the crack, because the feet are like greased glass. May 5, 2009
Dave E.
washington
Dave E.   washington
For full value (imho) step left at the top of the finger crack to the obvious offwidth(short) that leads to a ledge with rap slings. If you wish to pro the offwidth bring a BIG cam ie #6 friend or likewise. However, there is a fixed pin at the begining of the offwidth, making it manageable without large a cam. When in doubt..... Oct 16, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I always thought that the 5.7 rating was a sandbag! Thanks for up rating. Sep 13, 2006