Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Pete Schoening & Jim Henry | FFA Fred Beckey & Don Gordon
Page Views: 5,566 total · 26/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Aug 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The start to this route is an ultra-classic, super-short finger-crack. There's a good rest at the handjam pods high on the route. Some consider it cheating to reach out to the rail at any point that is not the very top of the horn. Also, watch out on warm days as the crack and the super-polished footholds can get very greasy. The route continues up to a rap anchor and several more pitches to the top of Castle Rock, but this is rarely climbed. 

Location Suggest change

Very obvious at the base of Upper Castle, just left of the intimidating Damnation Crack.

Protection Suggest change

Several small cams. Typically the green, yellow, and grey aliens work great. Also bring two shoulder length slings to sling around the horn at the top of the crack (for the anchor). From the ground, you can pretty easily flip the slings off the anchor with the rope when you're done TRing the route.

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