Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Fred Beckey, Don Wilde, 1950
Page Views: 902 total · 6/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This steep classic has been challenging climbers for decades. Solid rock and the unique features of the Jello Tower combine to make a stout climb. The pro is good but you'll struggle to get it as you forearms pump up. A combination of crack and face moves lead to the top of the tower.

Location

The route ascends the middle of the southwest face of Jello Tower.

Protection

Regular rack to #2 camalot.
Bolted anchors on top

Photos

A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway. May 2, 2013
Thad Arnold
Oregon
 
Thad Arnold   Oregon
 
I was really impressed with this route. Super fun and good gear. May 23, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
I think it's worth remembering that Mead Hargis made the first free ascent of this. May 19, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
first ascent: Fred and Don Wilde, 1950. It is listed incorrectly in Kramar's book. Ed Cooper confirms this as he was not yet climbing in 50 or 52.
Beckey also says they placed 2 bolts on the first ascent, they are long gone. At the lower crux you can place a good cam, make some very hard moves and then it is really strenuous to quickly jam a small cam or nut in, then it is much easier the rest of the way with one more short crux after the roof. Sep 7, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Geoff. Now updated.

The more history we have of a route, the better. Sep 7, 2016
hummerchine
  5.11b
hummerchine  
  5.11b
5.10d my ass. SOLID 5.11. Mar 10, 2017