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Routes in Castle Rock

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Fred Beckey, Don Wilde, 1950
Page Views: 774 total · 5/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This steep classic has been challenging climbers for decades. Solid rock and the unique features of the Jello Tower combine to make a stout climb. The pro is good but you'll struggle to get it as you forearms pump up. A combination of crack and face moves lead to the top of the tower.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route ascends the middle of the southwest face of Jello Tower.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Regular rack to #2 camalot.
Bolted anchors on top

Photos

A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway. May 2, 2013
Thad Arnold
Oregon
 
Thad Arnold   Oregon
 
I was really impressed with this route. Super fun and good gear. May 23, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
I think it's worth remembering that Mead Hargis made the first free ascent of this. May 19, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
first ascent: Fred and Don Wilde, 1950. It is listed incorrectly in Kramar's book. Ed Cooper confirms this as he was not yet climbing in 50 or 52.
Beckey also says they placed 2 bolts on the first ascent, they are long gone. At the lower crux you can place a good cam, make some very hard moves and then it is really strenuous to quickly jam a small cam or nut in, then it is much easier the rest of the way with one more short crux after the roof. Sep 7, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Geoff. Now updated.

The more history we have of a route, the better. Sep 7, 2016
hummerchine
  5.11b
hummerchine  
  5.11b
5.10d my ass. SOLID 5.11. Mar 10, 2017

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