Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Bjornstad, Bill Hooper, 1963
Page Views: 848 total · 9/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up the ledges to the right of Midway, to below the big roof. Traverse left below the roof on good edges, and then upward through blocks and cracks to a good belay stance. The second pitch climbs up and then traverses right into a crack system, and can be run all the way to the summit with a 60 meter rope.

Location

Right of Midway

Protection

Gear to 3 inches

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
FA: Eric Bjornstad, Bill Hooper, 1963. They rated it 5.7 for the first pitch. May 20, 2014
Jacob Wolniewicz
Seattle, WA
  5.7
Jacob Wolniewicz   Seattle, WA
  5.7
I marked this route as one to avoid.

Based upon the amount of moss and rat poop on the first pitch I can tell it doesn't get much traffic. For how popular the climbs to the right and left of this are it makes one wonder how many people actually like the climb.

Pitch 2 is essentially the second and third pitch of Midway and is totally fine.

Pitch one also had hardened resin on a lot of what should be good holds. It wasn't sticky, and I have no idea what could of created it. But it made a lot of the holds that would make this climb easy filled in and smooth. I wouldn't rate this 5.6 especially with the holds ruined. Sep 25, 2017
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Nonsense. This pitch is well worth it. Pro is good. Rock yes is slick but not anything out of character for the rest of Castle Rock. Mar 21, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.6
I agree with John, this is a good route, yes it is a bit slippery under the roof ( ancient urine ). The 2nd pitch can be done completely separate from the Midway route. Sep 12, 2018
Eric Fjellanger  
  5.6
It's like a one. AKA a Leavenworth two. Sep 14, 2018