Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Collins
Page Views: 3,369 total · 21/month
Shared By: ScottH on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

This is the steep face left of the Midway chimney. Climb steep terrain to a bulge midway up the face. After pulling through the bulge, the difficulties ease. The climbing and the gear are both better than they look from the ground. Belay from bolts on top of Jello Tower (shared by all Jello Tower routes). Consistently fun and interesting 5.8+ moves the whole way.

Protection

Gear to 2".

Photos

This climb was harder than I thought it would be and definitley gets an 8+ or a 9 rating (maybe). It is very exposed and steep through the first crack section but you can put some gear in below the bulge. There is a bolt above the bulge but to pull through it was somewhat difficult. After that it's pretty straightforward to the chains. Apr 27, 2006
A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway. May 2, 2013
Allison Herrington
Leavenworth
 
Allison Herrington   Leavenworth
 
This is one of the best 5.8's in Leavenworth! Most leaders who can only lead 5.8 or 5.9 will find it difficult. Since it's steep, it's a safe lead, though. Sep 1, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
FA- Joe Hieb and unknown partner, late 50's or early 60's. One 1/4" bolt was placed just above the lower roof crux. It was there when I did it, but is gone now.
FFA- Fred Beckey, Dave Collins, 1962, they thought it was 5.7, which is funny because when we did Midway with him, he thought it was at least 5.7, but he was having a hard day at 88 years. May 19, 2014
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
I wonder when the huge finishing flake will pull loose. If you look closely, it is almost completely detached from the tower. It's freaky because your only choice is to yard on it. Have an escape plan before you yard! Oct 7, 2015
S. Yi
Bellevue, WA
 
S. Yi   Bellevue, WA
 
Great route for people breaking into the 5.8-5.9 grade. Protects well and is vertical but there are opportunities to rest if you look for them. Much more fun to get up than via Midway. May 23, 2016
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.8+
DO THIS ROUTE! The first pitch of Midway gave me the spooks, but this single pitch was nothing but fun from start to finish. May 30, 2016
hummerchine
  5.9+
hummerchine  
  5.9+
I love this climb! I warm up on it all the time and never get tired of it. I've been climbing A LOT for nearly 40 years, have climbed this pitch 100-200 times easy. Well...it ain't easy for a 5.8. Never was, never will be. Plus it's gotten a bit harder over the years because it's slick. I rate it 5.9+ and that's being kind to the original grade....the crux would be rated 5.10a at most climbing areas.

I swear...I kinda feel like I OWN this crag. I climb here all the time...easily 4-5 hundred times by now. It's 35 minutes from my house and it RULZ! I've also climbed all over the world...have easily spend over a year of my life in Joshua Tree, many many trips to Yosemite, have climbed El Cap ten times (twice solo), massive amounts of Index climbing, Frenchman Coulee, all over the West, Gunks, Red River Gorge, multiple trips to Moab, three trips to Kalymnos, five to Devil's Tower, etc. etc. etc.

Point being...I know grades. I know grades really well. The grades at Castle Rock are complete BS. Most of them are wildly off...in this case just a moderate amount so.. I should know:D Jul 14, 2016
D14411 F
  5.9+
D14411 F  
  5.9+
Fell and broke my ankle on this route, was getting used to leading 5.7ish in the area and thought "oh its just one grade higher".

This is definitely a big step up from many of the other 5.7s in the Leavenworth area. Oct 2, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
Sorry to hear about your ankle, Nat.

As Hummer- says, it is definitely harder than its rating suggests. And the start has a bad landing. Oct 2, 2016
"definitely harder than its rating suggests"

at 5.8+

i recall this being rated 5.7 in the olden days...sandbagger's delight! Nov 25, 2017