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Routes in Upper Castle

Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saints T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satanic Verses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Winter Solstice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Description

These are the climbs off or near Logger's Ledge, which is reached from the trail starting on the west side of the parking lot. 

Getting There

Take the trail starting at the west end of the parking lot. The trail goes uphill and to the east across the large ledge feature splitting the formation (Logger's Ledge). The first routes are reached in about 5-10 minutes. 

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 138
Midway
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 104
Saber
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 47
Midway Direct
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Old Gray Mare
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 171
Canary
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
South Face, Jello Tower
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 89
Damnation Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
Crack of Doom
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Angel
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 29
The Nose, of Jello Tower
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 27
MF Overhang
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
MF Direct
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 11
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD)
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Das Musak
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 7
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Midway
 138
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Saber
 104
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Midway Direct
 47
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Old Gray Mare
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Canary
 171
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
South Face, Jello Tower
 90
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Damnation Crack
 89
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Crack of Doom
 41
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Angel
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Nose, of Jello Tower
 29
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
MF Overhang
 27
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
MF Direct
 14
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka…
 11
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad
Das Musak
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad
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