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MF DOOM
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Upper Castle
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Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angel Dreads T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Blocks of Doom T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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By the Sea T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Directissima T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gargoyle T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hangdog T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MF Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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MF DOOM T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Saber Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saints T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short N' Sassy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 47.59968, -120.71235 |
| FA: | Mike Miller 6/7/2026 |
| Page Views: | 336 total · 131/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Miller on Jun 7, 2026 |
| Admins: | Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
I was amazed to find a new route on Castle Rock in 2026! This thing was overhanging the trail, lurking under a thick moss layer that kept the crowds away for 80 years. While cleaning it I kept expecting to find old pitons or pin scars or some trace of a forgotten ascent , but I never found it.
Stars with a bolt protected boulder problem off the ground (stick clip recommended). Climb up a 5.0 ramp then face climb past 2 more bolts. The original line stays left of Gargoyles with improbable face climbing between horizontal cracks. Climb left of the lone pine tree. Next, climb wild steep zig zagging cracks (crux). Finish up a a fun pumpy flake system to the chains.
Full disclosure, I have only sent this climb with gear pre-placed (I think the elders call this pink pointing) but I don’t feel like bogarting this climb and keeping my friends off of it any longer. Get after it!
Grading routes sucks. I think this thing is nearly as hard as Rainshadow but way easier than Gargoyles. I also think everything at Castle Rock is sandbagged by modern standards. According to Darth Grader this climb is 5.12c/d but by Castle standards it is probably 5.12a/b. Go climb it and see what you think!
1 Comment