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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Dan Foster, JJ Schlick 2001,2002
Page Views: 731 total · 7/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 20, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

When Foster was looking for FA’s to do on this wall he was looking for lines he could onsight and FA all in one swoop. He was ever efficient with his agendas and deadly effective with his execution. You don’t get a nickname like “The Assassin” without a certain discipline.

Starts to the right of Dr. Octagon, and shares anchors with that route as well. Climb up chunky rock towards a seam in a very obtuse open dihedral. Look for a pin (that you can see from the ground), and continue up the seam passing edges, and finger pods. The moves are strenuous for the angle, and the jams seem to me to be sequential to a degree. A classic heads up Foster route...

Location

Middle of the right wall, look for pin at 1/3 height in seam.

Protection

Small/ medium TCUs, small/medium wires.

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
 
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
 
Really cool route! Protected surprisingly well. I used a number of small wires. Triple grey Metolius or the equivalent will come in handy as well as doubles up to 0.4 Camelot. I used nothing larger than that. Aug 29, 2009

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