Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: David Bloom, Jay M.
Page Views: 3,117 total · 15/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Smilin’ Jay was the first route that local hero David Bloom added to the Waterfall in the middle 90’s, and to this day remains one of the better 5.10’s on the right wall. The movement is really good through the middle, though the rock quality can be a little touch and go. Best to climb with confidence.

The pitch is characterized by a mostly finger sized crack with plenty of face holds. There is a short section of 5.9+ climbing that is hard to protect at 1/3 height... just after this section are some bomber #.4 or preferably #3 Orange Metolious. The crack will sound hollow at points in the middle of the route, but the boulder problem crux is up high on solid rock and is protected with good small cams, then a bomber medium sized wire. Enjoy the final bit of exposure mantling onto the anchor ledge. Fun stuff.

Location Suggest change

Right wall, middle section, ends on ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles from #1 TCU through .75 Camalot. Medium set of wires, draws. 2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners.