Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: David Bloom, Jay M.
Page Views: 1,796 total · 12/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Smilin’ Jay is the first route that local hero David Bloom added to the Waterfall in the late 90’s, and to this day remains one of the better 5.10’s on the right wall.

The pitch is characterized by a mostly finger sized crack with plenty of face holds. There is a short section of 5.9+ climbing that is hard to protect at 1/3 height... just after this section are some bomber #.5's. The rock can sound hollow in the middle of the route, but the boulder problem crux is up high on solid rock and is protected with good small cams, then a bomber medium sized wire. Fun stuff and a great intro to the Right Wall.

Location

Right wall, middle section, ends on ledge.

Protection

Doubles from #1 TCU through .75 Camalot. Medium set of wires, draws. 2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners.

Photos

It might just be the warm-up, but it's a fun route on quality rock! Nov 13, 2007