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Flavor of the Day

5.11d, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3 from 17 votes
FA: Dan Foster, JJ Schlick 2002
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Waterfall > 3. The Right Wall

Description

When Foster was looking for FA’s to do on this wall he was looking for lines he could onsight and FA all in one swoop. He was ever efficient with his agendas and always effective with his execution. 

Starts to the right of Dr. Octagon, and shares anchors with that route as well. Climb up chunky rock towards a seam in a very obtuse open dihedral. Look for a pin (which you can see from the ground) and continue up the seam passing edges and finger pods. The moves are strenuous for the angle, and the jams seem to be sequential to a degree. A classic heads up Foster route...

Location

Middle of the right wall, look for pin at 1/3 height in seam.

Protection

Small/ medium TCUs, small/medium wires.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kevin Kent's amnesia on-sight of flavor of the day, w catch by jj Schlick, waterfall sports action.
[Hide Photo] Kevin Kent's amnesia on-sight of flavor of the day, w catch by jj Schlick, waterfall sports action.
Flavor of the Day follows the obvious seam. How you get to it is up to you. You can see the pin just above the last block.
[Hide Photo] Flavor of the Day follows the obvious seam. How you get to it is up to you. You can see the pin just above the last block.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Really cool route! Protected surprisingly well. I used a number of small wires. Triple grey Metolius or the equivalent will come in handy as well as doubles up to 0.4 Camelot. I used nothing larger than that. Aug 29, 2009
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty rad and sustained! Could dump some cams up to #1 in the first 40 feet of 5.9 block hugging. Feb 5, 2021
Thomas Claiborne
Flagstaff
 
[Hide Comment] Didn't lead it, because I wanted to check out the gear, but I thought this pitch was tremendous fun after the usual starting waterfall choss. Feb 16, 2022
Chris Kalman
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Arguably 4 stars. Especially now that roughly one metric shit-ton of loose death blocks have been removed from the first 40 feet of easy climbing. It may be a bit dusty up there after all that trundling, so climb with caution.
The pin seems solid, but if it pulled on a fall, that would be pretty bad news. You can place some small wires/RPs though to back up the pin immediately above it. Even if you're short, you can prob place at least one wire and equalize it with the pin before really committing.
I thought 000s and 00s were pretty nice to have. Think I placed two of each. Nov 21, 2022
Kevin Kent
 
[Hide Comment] You can back up the pin with a blue and red ballnut, but long term my vote would just be to replace the pin with a bolt. Even if that pin were a bolt this route still has plenty of spice. Nov 5, 2023