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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: J. Unema, J. Crawley
Page Views: 836 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Sep 16, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Whether you consent or not, this roof just might have its way with you. This line tackles the roof crack splitting the two hexagons left of Dr. Octagon. Climb Dr. Octagon up to the roof, and instead of pulling the roof to the right, traverse under the roof to the left and fire directly out the main roof crack. Pull over the lip and continue to the top with more moderate climbing to the two bolt anchor.

Location

Starts as Dr. Octagon and moves left to pull the roof.

Protection

Double set of cams from 0 c3 to #1 C4 Camalot size
A set of Micro-Nuts, offset micros helpful but not necessary. Two bolt anchor with fixed lockers.

Photos

Anus Herder
Colona, CO
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
Aint easy with a rack of all hexes.. but possible? Oct 4, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Two thumbs up on this route name. Oct 7, 2017
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Do they make rp-sized hexes? if so, then yes Dec 23, 2017
Reed Johnson
  5.12c
Reed Johnson  
  5.12c
So glad I got on this! From the ground the roof looks cray cray, but once you figure out the movement it is astounding and safe. I chose to try a new variation and climb the bolts of bootlegger, then an awesome crimp traverse to meet with Dr. Octagon. Highly suggest this! (make sure you extend everything you put in the crack before the roof!) There are probably some good nut placements after you pull the roof, though I just ran it out until my feet were on the jugs. GOOD GEAR FROM THERE! Have fun :)))) Jan 30, 2018

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