Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: J. Unema, J. Crawley
Page Views: 903 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Sep 16, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Whether you consent or not, this roof just might have its way with you. This line tackles the roof crack splitting the two hexagons left of Dr. Octagon. Climb Dr. Octagon up to the roof, and instead of pulling the roof to the right, traverse under the roof to the left and fire directly out the main roof crack. Pull over the lip and continue to the top with more moderate climbing to the two bolt anchor.

Location

Starts as Dr. Octagon and moves left to pull the roof.

Protection

Double set of cams from 0 c3 to #1 C4 Camalot size
A set of Micro-Nuts, offset micros helpful but not necessary. Two bolt anchor with fixed lockers.

Photos

Anus Herder
Colona, CO
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
Aint easy with a rack of all hexes.. but possible? Oct 4, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Two thumbs up on this route name. Oct 7, 2017
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12+
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12+
Do they make rp-sized hexes? if so, then yes Dec 23, 2017
Reed Johnson
  5.12c
Reed Johnson  
  5.12c
So glad I got on this! From the ground the roof looks cray cray, but once you figure out the movement it is astounding and safe. I chose to try a new variation and climb the bolts of bootlegger, then an awesome crimp traverse to meet with Dr. Octagon. Highly suggest this! (make sure you extend everything you put in the crack before the roof!) There are probably some good nut placements after you pull the roof, though I just ran it out until my feet were on the jugs. GOOD GEAR FROM THERE! Have fun :)))) Jan 30, 2018