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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Dan Foster, JJ Schlick 2003
Page Views: 1,613 total · 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

A Wonderful Life was a saving grace and needed distraction from reality for Dan when we were working on the pitch. He got so excited about the line that he actually wanted to add bolts to link the bottom and top, though I am pretty sure I did the bolting. He was slow at first, to see the potential a few bolts would open up. At the end of the day, all was wonderful and life seemed right and just. A striking pitch with classic Waterfall climbing.

Start on a very pronounced finger crack 2 systems left of Resurrection. Work your way up to a shallow, overhanging, left facing dihedral passing three bolts. Once you reach the upper dihedral be ready to move and place thin gear on the run.

Location

On the far right side of the Right Wall. Left of Resurrection. Obvious finger crack which is at the moment shrouded by branches.

Protection

Plenty of small/medium TCUs, small/medium wires, and Lowe Balls.

Photos

RyanJames
  5.12b/c PG13
RyanJames  
  5.12b/c PG13
This route would be perfect without the series of sharp, detached blocks towards the top. Has anyone tried removing the bottom one? Oct 10, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  PG13
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  PG13
I'm sure Dan and I looked them over thoroughly, but this was also before we started dropping blocks like these. I might have a chance to take a closer look sometime soon, but if you are feeling industrious Ryan go for it. Just be safe, and start at the top if you can.... Oct 10, 2013

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