Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Joel Unema 2014
Page Views: 845 total · 13/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

If you wonder what it takes to climb this route...look up turn down for what on YouTube... lil Jon.

Climb broken but steep rock that is much more solid than it looks up to a ledge. Launch into the high quality climbing above, stemming and liebacking twin seams in a flake up to a ledge. Mantle the ledge, plug some gear and turn it up for the technical and very fingery boulder problem. From here continue up the pocketed stem box...plugging occasional microcams in horizontals. It would be possible to traverse right onto sweet dreams or left onto the finishing ledge of Flavor of the Day.... doing so reduces the grade a bit and the quality significantly.

Location

Start left of Sweet Dreams, directly beneath the thin seam right of Flavor of the Day

Protection

Double set of cams from 000 to .75 camalot. Key pieces at top are green and red c3's. Top is exciting with spaced out but good gear.

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I think this wins for funniest route name at the waterfall. Jun 2, 2014
I found the top to be more than exciting, but pretty scary with hard to find gear. After onsighting through the apparent crux, I stalled out in the last 20 feet, climbing up and down for awhile trying to find gear that would hold a fall. Eventually, I gave up and stepped left to the neighboring anchor before checking out the top from the comfort of a TR. Even on TR, the horizontal slots are hard to see from below, making an onsight of this route a real feat. May 15, 2018