East Coast Fist Bump OG Variation
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 34.93143, -111.73278 |
| FA: | Joel Unema |
| Page Views: | 1,086 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Joel Unema on Sep 24, 2021 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
I've gone back and forth on how to address the "new sequence" found by those who have repeated ECFB recently. I think it is worth mentioning how the FA was done and storing it as a different route. This OG variation climbs 100% independent of No Utopia. I acknowledge that the routes do get quite close, and that is how the "new sequence" was found/unlocked, as the new sequence uses the arete between routes and uses some large face holds shared with No Utopia for hands/feet in the crux.
The OG variation stays left of the arete the entire time and climbs the seam and crimps around the seam (mostly to the left). Take a look at the photos on ECFB to see me on the FA in the crux sequence. For this OG variation sequence, stay in/left of the seam until the arching mini-dihedral that marks the end of the crux. Don't step down/left to No Utopia and continue up and then back left to the arete to finish.
I understand that some might consider this an eliminate, but I think it is just a independent line that is a bit contrived by the nature of the basalt climbing at the waterfall. It's awesome to have a great climb every 6 ft, but on occasion it presents situations like this where the lines get close and you can climb onto a neighboring route to avoid some difficulty.
Anyway, consider this an option if you are interested in the original history of the route, or if you repeat ECFB with the "new sequence" and find it too easy. This OG method is a bit more savage crimping, but to me is the independent line and therefore worth preserving as it's own route.



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