Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 1,015 total · 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 26, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Though this is a link up, I wanted to add it as a separate pitch so people would know its here. As described below this route makes for the easiest 5.10 climbing on the Right Wall, as well as delivering very consistent climbing at that grade. The line is riddled with positive holds, and It also avoids the rather awkward crux of BFAM which is now suffering from some deteriorating holds at the top of it's crux.

Climb BFAM to the break at 2/3 height just below the small dihedral. Do not clip the bolt in the mini dihedral to your right, but instead move just left on large holds and a very good #0 TCU in a horizontal. You can place a couple TCUs here as it is a little ways and a .9+ move to some jugs before your next good gear. Continue moving up the shallow dihedral of Soldier of Fortune passing good gear (#2) below the little .10a move which guards the anchor.

Location

Starts on BFAM, finishes at the Soldier Of Fortune anchor.

Protection

7 bolts on the first 2/3, then a selection of small TCUs from #00-.4, (1) #2. Two bolt anchor with 1 ClimbTech Steel Mussy Hook and one regular biner.

Photos