Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Dan Foster 2001
Page Views: 2,635 total · 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Sweet Dreams is a Dan Foster original that is guaranteed to wake you up. Many talented climbers have found themselves in a nightmarish position on this line being runout over small, dubious gear while figuring out 5.12 cranks.

Sweet Dreams starts to the right of Flavor of the Day. Climb up large open dihedral passing interesting terrain with sparse and varied gear. Once you arrive at the tight, ever steepening stembox expect thin gear and tight stemming. This may be the one hard line at the Waterfall that suits a shorter frame. Engaging. Good luck.

The route saw some cleaning post FA. Sounds like gear options opened up. 

Location Suggest change

A good ways down the right side of the Right Wall. To the right of Flavor of the Day, and to the left of No Utopia/Natural Enhancement.

Protection Suggest change

Small/medium TCUs, small/medium wires, RP’s, micro offsets, red and blue sliders.


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