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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother From Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother Of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder They Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dan Foster 2001/2002
Page Views: 1,060 total, 10/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Sweet Dreams is a Dan Foster original that is guaranteed to wake you up. Many talented climbers have found themselves in a nightmarish position on this line- runout over small, dubious gear.

Sweet Dreams starts to the right of Flavor of the Day. Climb up large open dihedral passing interesting terrain with sparse and varied gear. Once you arrive at the tight, ever steepening stembox expect thin gear and tight stemming. This may be the one hard line at the Waterfall that suits a shorter frame. Sporty. Good luck.

Location

A good ways down the right side of the Right Wall. To the right of Flavor of the Day, and to the left of No Utopia/Natural Enhancement.

Protection

Small/medium TCUs, small/medium wires, lowe balls.

Photos

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Awesome work on the leads Joel. I followed Dan Foster up this line on two occasions, and was impressed by the lack of good gear. Though he did it on command, this line may have even made him sweat a little. It's a long R for sure in my book. The kind of deal where you want to create a web of gear that in the case of a fall, some pieces will blow and hopefully slow you down enough for the better pieces to catch you. Real deal for sure. Aug 6, 2013
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b R
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b R
After repeating this route, if it doesnt warrant an R rating, then nothing at the Waterfall does. Dave and I cleaned this line and worked out the moves on a couple TR burns, but an onsight of this would be truly impressive and bold. Probably easier now after Dave Bloom and I cleaned it up a bit. Jul 31, 2013
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
5.12+ R
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
5.12+ R
Better bring sliders... small cams and nuts won't do it... safely. Dec 27, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
This thing has seen some high class onsight attempt upset! A stunning line, though you better watch your back! Dec 13, 2010