Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dan Foster 2001/2002
Page Views: 1,234 total · 11/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Sweet Dreams is a Dan Foster original that is guaranteed to wake you up. Many talented climbers have found themselves in a nightmarish position on this line being runout over small, dubious gear while figuring out 5.12 cranks.

Sweet Dreams starts to the right of Flavor of the Day. Climb up large open dihedral passing interesting terrain with sparse and varied gear. Once you arrive at the tight, ever steepening stembox expect thin gear and tight stemming. This may be the one hard line at the Waterfall that suits a shorter frame. Sporty. Good luck.

Location

A good ways down the right side of the Right Wall. To the right of Flavor of the Day, and to the left of No Utopia/Natural Enhancement.

Protection

Small/medium TCUs, small/medium wires, RP’s, micro offsets, red and blue sliders.

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12
This thing has seen some high class onsight attempt upset! A stunning line, though you better watch your back! Dec 13, 2010
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
5.12+ R
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
5.12+ R
Better bring sliders... small cams and nuts won't do it... safely. Dec 27, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12
Awesome work on the leads Joel. I followed Dan Foster up this line on two occasions, and was impressed by the lack of good gear. Though he did it on command, this line may have even made him sweat a little. It's a long R for sure in my book. The kind of deal where you want to create a web of gear that in the case of a fall, some pieces will blow and hopefully slow you down enough for the better pieces to catch you. Real deal for sure. Aug 6, 2013
I found a lot of gear on this one, but probably had 6 or 7 red sliders with a few blue sliders. I felt safe on a ground-up effort through the whole route. A brilliant line. Aug 24, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12
That’s quite a rack of sliders you have Joe. Aug 24, 2018