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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Burcham, Dan Foster ~2002
Page Views: 651 total · 6/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route was named both for John’s affection towards his new route and how Dan felt about seeing Burcham commit to the wild finishing sequence.

A decent pitch that gets better every time you do it. Starts in the same system as BFAM. Instead of heading left, move straight up passing funky moves and lone bolt. Continue scrapping up the crack and edges until the high ledge break. Save a 0 TCU or two, for the last bulging boulder problem. A .5 camalot for the last piece is a real treat!

To avoid the committing regular finish, you can now move right off the ledge to join Bootlegger if you are smart with your rope flow. Should bump up the quality of the pitch.

Location

Shares start with BFAM.

Protection

Small/medium TCU, small/medium wires

Photos

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