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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brother From Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother Of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder They Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Joshua Janes.
Page Views: 2,508 total · 23/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 4, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

One of the last lines to go down on the Right Wall, Kindness is a beautiful pitch of trad climbing. This route tackles some seriously intimidating terrain and is super fun!

Begin as for No Feelings which moves up fractured rock skirting well to the left of the massive, lower roof. Where No Feelings continues moving way left to a system that avoids the huge upper roof, Kindness heads directly up to it via a nice thin-hands crack.

Once at the roof, undercling right to a jug and take a few breaths before pulling the roof via imaginary tips and some wonderfully strange moves that will bring a smile to your face. If all goes well, you'll find yourself established in the beautiful upper corner no worse for wear. Continue upwards with 5.12 liebacking and stemming to a stance at a hand jam and a horizontal that is just a little too steep for comfort. Step left here (do not continue straight up!) into an exposed, overhanging finger crack that culminates with a final mantle onto the top of the column.

Location

Begin at fractured rock below the two huge roofs - one at 50', the other at 75'.

Protection

A double set from tips to 2", wires, long slings and a 70m rope.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Nice work Josh. This looks like a rad line. Jul 5, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
No doubt- Josh put this thing to rest in three attempts, in one sweltering day! Fucking impressive! Jul 14, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
  5.13a
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
  5.13a
Another thanks to Josh for doing the FA of this awesome route!

Intense and difficult sequence getting over the roof. Remains sustained and hard. Protection is good throughout.

One of the best sequences at the Waterfall. Wish the first half of the route was a bit harder and of similar quality as the top half.

Difficult route to rate. I'll go with the 13a Josh gave it for now until it sees more ascents/opinions. Dec 1, 2009
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.12+
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.12+
After the 5.9 start things get a little crazy. Karate kick, body smear, and slap your way over the roof. The stemming above takes some real try hard! If you make it to the hand-pod/jug clean, then it's going to the top! Gear is all bomber but small and strenuous to place over the roof.
Might take a 5.13 effort to onsight this thing, but the roof moves are doable if you get a chance to work out your own beta. For me the moves felt harder then Pyrokinesis 5.12c but not as hard as wolverine or parting gift. Oct 16, 2013
Josh Janes    
 
Thanks for getting on it and posting up Robbie! Oct 21, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.12+
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.12+
Right on Josh! Thanks for doing the FA on this awesome line. Oct 25, 2013
Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12c
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12c
a great line that doesn't get as much attention as it deserves. techy roof sequence to a strenuous corner and finally a pumpy overhanging finish. all the gear is bomber. get on it! Nov 12, 2014

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