Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2012
Page Views: 1,719 total · 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

"Well, there is no utopia." I heard it said many times growing up when my old man wanted to curb my childish idealism or quickly explain the harsher realities of life. I just like saying it these days as I slowly turn into my father.

This curvacious pitch shares the start of Natural Enhancement. Beware the 'in your face' starting moves 5.10+, whether you are leading or following because of the large pointed boulder below. I have not heard of anyone taking the sharp end of that thing, but it could happen, so heads up.

At 40' look left towards a small sweeping bulge. This marks the entrance into No Utopia and another 75' of rather stellar face climbing which features an awesome thin crimping crux on 1/4" edges. The top 30' is slightly overhanging and fully engaging.

The gear is good and pretty straight forward, though some of it is rather small, and some of it is placed on the run. I placed a ton of wires.

Location

Starts about 25' left of No Feelings at a very pointed boulder.

Protection

Single set of fingers, doubles from .5 BD to #2 BD. At least one full set of wires from #2-#10, and a set of offsets in addition are really nice to have as well. Three bolts in the middle. Save a #2 BD and #.75 BD for the top!!

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This route is awesome and protects very well. With rope stretch, a 60 meter rope will just get you back to the pointed boulder at the base. Sep 2, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.11d
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.11d
Waterfall Classic in my book. Another fantastic Mixed Route! Safe yet very exciting! Nov 10, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
It's the best “face” climbing down there for the grade. I've heard it's an awesome onsight, good work Robbie. Nov 11, 2013