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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother From Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother Of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder They Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Page Views: 1,314 total, 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

"Well, there is no utopia." I heard it said many times growing up when my old man wanted to describe a less than ideal situation. I just like saying it, but it is also in reference to the grovelly, block start, although it's a small price to pay for the upper goods.

This curvacious pitch shares the start and first third of Natural Enhancement. Beware the 'in your face' starting moves (5.10+, PG-13) whether you are leading, or following because of the large pointed boulder below. I have not heard of anyone taking the sharp end of that boulder, but it's bound to happen sooner or later so heads up.

At 40' look left towards a small sweeping bulge. This marks the entrance into No Utopia, and another 75' of rather stellar face climbing which features an awesome thin crimping crux on 1/4" edges. The top 30' is overhanging, and fully engaging.

The gear is good and pretty straight forward, though some of it is rather small, and some of it is placed on the run. I placed a lot of wires.

Location

Starts about 25' left of No Feelings at a very pointed boulder.

Protection

Single set of fingers, doubles from .5 BD to #2 BD. At least one full set of wires from #2-#10, and a set of offsets in addition are really nice to have as well. Three bolts in the middle. Save a #2 BD and #.75 BD for the top!!

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
It's the best face climbing down there for the grade. I've heard it's an awesome onsight, good work Robbie. Nov 11, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Waterfall Classic in my book. Another fantastic Mixed Route! Safe yet very exciting! Nov 10, 2013
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This route is awesome and protects very well. With rope stretch, a 60 meter rope will just get you back to the pointed boulder at the base. Sep 2, 2013