Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2012
Page Views: 2,777 total · 25/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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"Well, there is no utopia." I heard it said many times growing up when my old man wanted to curb my childish idealism or quickly explain the harsher realities of life. I just like saying it these days as I slowly turn into my father and can appreciate his honest nature on a deeper level.

This curvacious pitch shares the start of Natural Enhancement. Beware the 'in your face' starting moves 5.10+, whether you are leading or following because of the large pointed boulder below. I have not heard of anyone taking the sharp end of that thing, but it could happen, so heads up.

At 40' look left towards a small sweeping bulge. This marks the entrance into No Utopia and another 75' of rather stellar face climbing which features an awesome thin crimping crux on 1/4" edges. The top 30' is slightly overhanging and fully engaging.

The gear is good and pretty straight forward, though some of it is rather small, and some of it is placed on the run. I placed a ton of wires.


Starts about 25' left of No Feelings at a very pointed boulder.


Single set of fingers, doubles from .5 BD to #2 BD. At least one full set of wires from #2-#10, and a set of offsets in addition are really nice to have as well. Three bolts in the middle. Save a #2 BD and #.75 BD for the top!!