Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 2001
Page Views: 2,761 total · 13/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Soldier of Fortune is a classy technical face climbing route which favors out of the box thinking and good footwork. It also requires staying calm under fire during the .9+ PG-13 top section while finding some tricky placements at good stances, however you are a ways up in the air at that point.

Start to the right of Smiling Jay in a large dihedral. Cool holds and good stemming in an open dihedral will lead you to a bulge with a series of large rails. Work right past the first bolt to a good stance. Move up onto the zig-zagging rail, clip the second bolt, and you are into the crux. Pick your way past some tricky moves, devious holds, and the last bolt.

After the crux section paddle your way up stellar holds and 5.9 terrain keeping an eye out for gear. Follow the seam system up through a section of welded flakes, and one more .10- stem move with very good gear just below the anchors.

This was the first route I established at the Waterfall and is still one of my favorites. While it’s not a remarkable route, once you know it, it's one of those lines you can do over and over and enjoy it every time. Don't miss the hidden ”pocket“ rest stance out left, just before committing to the technical crux at bolt # 3. I added this bolt in 2009. It also originally finished at the original Smiling Jay anchor. The direct finish was added in 2013. A route that always seems to be on the move, and guaranteed to keep you on your toes, bottom to top. 

Location Suggest change

Right side, middle section

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts, double set of TCUs from 000-.4, (1) #2 camalot, small/medium wires.
2 bolt anchor with Climb Tech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA at the courtesy of the NAZCC.