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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother From Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother Of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder They Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 2001/2002
Page Views: 1,272 total, 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Soldier Of Fortune is a classic, technical face climbing route which favors out of the box thinking, and good footwork. And for some may lead to a battle of nerves, as some sections of the route require you to keep a calm head, and find some tricky placements at good stances, however you are a ways up in the air at that point.

Start to the right of Smiling Jay in a large open dihedral. Cool holds, and good stemming lead you to a bulge with a series of large rails which take you out right past the first bolt to a good stance. Move up onto the zig-zagging rail, clip the second bolt, and you are into the crux. Pick your way through some rad moves, devious holds, and the last bolt.

After the crux section paddle your way up stellar, positive holds and 5.9 terrain keeping an eye out for gear. Follow the seam system up through a section of welded flakes, and one more .10- stem crux with very good gear just below the anchors.

This was the first route I established at the Waterfall and is still one of my favorites. Once you know it, it's one of those lines you can do over and over, and enjoy it every time. Don't miss the hidden pocket rest stance out left, just before committing to strange crux at bolt # 3....

Location

Right side, middle section

Protection

3 bolts, TCUs, #2 camalot, small/medium wires.

Photos

Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Sir Schlick i thank you! I need to give this climb another lap and most likely another star! Oct 23, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The choss you speak of Mr. brown has been removed. Sep 28, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Classic waterfallness. A little bit chossy at the crux though! watch out Sep 3, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
So I finally got a proper anchor on this line, and it only took me 13 years or so to get it done... Darren M., Wade, and I cleaned up the top of this thing today as well, and it simply adds a classic finish to an already classy pitch. Thanks for the help boys, I can cross that job off the never ending list of things to do! Sep 1, 2013