Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 2001/2002
Page Views: 1,465 total · 10/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Soldier of Fortune is a classic, technical face climbing route which favors out of the box thinking and good footwork. It also requires staying calm under fire during the .9+ PG-13 top section while finding some tricky placements at good stances, however you are a ways up in the air at that point.

Start to the right of Smiling Jay in a large left facing dihedral. Cool holds, and good stemming in an open dihedral lead you to a bulge with a series of large rails which take you out right past the first bolt to a good stance. Move up onto the zig-zagging rail, clip the second bolt, and you are into the crux. Pick your way past some tricky moves, devious holds, and the last bolt.

After the crux section paddle your way up stellar holds and 5.9 terrain keeping an eye out for gear. Follow the seam system up through a section of welded flakes, and one more .10- stem move with very good gear just below the anchors.

This was the first route I established at the Waterfall and is still one of my favorites. Once you know it, it's one of those lines you can do over and over, and enjoy it every time. Don't miss the hidden pocket rest stance out left, just before committing to the technical crux at bolt # 3.

Location

Right side, middle section

Protection

3 bolts,double set of TCUs from 000-.4, (1) #2 camalot, small/medium wires. 2 bolt anchor with 1 steel ClimbTech Mussy hook, one regular biner.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.11-
So I finally got a proper anchor on this line, and it only took me 13 years or so to get it done... Darren M., Wade, and I cleaned up the top of this thing today as well, and it simply adds a classic finish to an already classy pitch. Thanks for the help boys, I can cross that job off the never ending list of things to do!

You can still TR this pretty easily off the Smilin’ Jay anchor. Sep 1, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.11-
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.11-
Classic waterfallness. A little bit chossy at the crux though! watch out Sep 3, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.11-
The choss you speak of Mr. brown has been removed. Sep 28, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.11-
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.11-
Sir Schlick i thank you! I need to give this climb another lap and most likely another star! Oct 23, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.11-
We swapped the anchor biners for some freshies today. Hopefully get some ClimbTech Mussies on these as it looks like Brother of Fortune is seeing plenty of love. May 26, 2018