Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 1,883 total · 16/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Tainted Love is a classic pitch with a unique flavor and shares the start with Barbarian Rising. Enjoy interesting climbing up solid blocks to gain a small hands crack in open dihedral filled with wonderful stemming. Turn roof on the left with holds that will make you smile and take a plank rest.

From the rest stance, head left to obvious jug rail and bolts, then continue to look for holds around the left side of the arete. From there, you have to really start cranking. Total of five bolts from the rest to the top.

Location

To the Left of Barbarian Rising. Shares start with that route.

Protection

A good selection of small hands to hands sized pieces. Single set of small/medium Tcus. Small wires at the top optional.

Photos

The bolted climbing up top is beautiful. A must-do if you love arete climbing. Jan 31, 2014
Beware of a very loose block about 10 or 15 feet up this route. Dec 1, 2016
Reed Johnson
  5.12b
Reed Johnson  
  5.12b
Purty balancy and purty powerful Jan 30, 2018
Chris Kalman  
 
Really nice route. I thought the bolt placement was kind of funky through the crux section. If you're short (as I am), you have to do hard and weird moves right to clip the bolt at the crux, then make hard and weird moves back left to climb the crux. Clipping that bolt, in the end, was the crux of the pitch for me. Other than that, really nice route. Nov 19, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The more I think on it Chris, the more I feel I had to compromise on something with that bolt. Either I couldn’t put it where I wanted, or it ended up higher or lower. However, I thought it worked best by clipping it quick at the hip almost mid crux. I don’t think your the first to have trouble with it for what it’s worth. As the name implies, there is no utopia. Dec 11, 2018