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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2013
Page Views: 1,186 total · 17/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 20, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Aquarius Rising is a sweet pitch which starts to the right of Resurrection. Climb up a slender pillar, and mantle the narrow summit. Clip a bolt here, and get ready to bust out some wonderful compression moves that check in around 5.11 or V2. Continue up passing three more bolts (total of four) through a section of technical face climbing to a break 5.10+. Follow a thin crack that quickly widens to good hands to a small roof (at this point Resurrection breaks off right, while Aquarius Rising breaks left).

Stem up and left out the small roof 5.10+. Continue up to rather nice rest below the final section of steep crack. Enjoy the splitter 5.11- thin hands crux, which ends in a fantastically exposed section of perfect hands to perfect jugs to a perfect ledge. Save a #.75, #1, And a #2 Camelot for this section. You can also easily access the anchors of A Wonderful Life on this ledge, if you wanted to throw a TR on it or just take a look.

You can also link the first half of this pitch with the more wild finish of Resurrection for another very solid 5.11/.11+ adventure.

70M rope required, and it is a rough ride to lower off. A better option is to enjoy the belay, as well as, the scenery and bring your partner up. Then rap.

Location

In between Resurrection and Rude Awakening.

Protection

4 bolts, doubles from #00 to #2 Camalot, runners. A #3 or #4 works well as a first piece on the pillar.

Photos

Brian Krupitzer
Flagstaff, AZ
Brian Krupitzer   Flagstaff, AZ
Great route; I thought a piece or two smaller than .3 was handy when entering the crack after the last bolt. May 14, 2015

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